How to Support This Structure

[CCRN]

Well I received the M2 yesterday and have been printing away. Only two sample files on the card and other than losing connection once on the bracelet, both have printed well.

I found this case for my Apple Pencil on Thingiverse and wanted to give it a go. It is a narrow tube and I suspect it will fall over without the appropriate support. I am using Simplify3D and I am not sure whether to use a raft or a brim. Please take a look and let me know what the experts here suggest.

Thanks,
Jerold

[zemlin]

A brim would help it stay standing tall. I would not go with a raft on this part.
Also, make sure you enable retraction with some vertical lift. That will help prevent the nozzle from striking the part when moving across it.
Depending on the wall thickness, it might be a candidate for printing in spiral vase mode, which would eliminate retractions.

[CCRN]

Looks like the retraction settings are on the attached screen. What would you recommend for vertical lift? Also, how would you recommend setting the brim. I understand a brim has no offset from the object being printed. Not sure the number of layers and outlines I should use.

I have included a different view to show the thickness of the tube as well.

Thank you very much,

Jerold

[Jules]

Brim is good, but you would need to remove it, and it leaves a mark. Use a lot of adhesive and a fairly slow printing speed if you want to try it without the brim. Lots of cooling for PLA, and enable a small 0.4 mm jump on retraction.

(And if it were me, I would choose a different file for my first print out of the box. That one is going to take a long time to print. Save it for once you are more comfortable with the printing process.)

[CCRN]

By adhesive you mean hairspray, correct? The bed has the klingon tape and I sanded it with extra fine paper to add more to the adherence. Prints so far are locking in like glue.

Maybe I'll print the smaller stand instead.

If I print for High Quality does this slow the printer down appropriately, or should I set the speeds under advanced? I have been using medium for my prints so far.

Thank you,

Jerold

[Jules]

Chuckle!......

That's a really tall print with a small surface area touching the plate to anchor it. You either need more surface area (brim) or you need to make sure it does not come unstuck at some point (adhesive and slow it down).

If you try hairspray....do a thick layer until it puddles on the tape, let it dry completely before printing. Or gluestick if you prefer to test that - complete coverage. (Best bet - PEI, which holds without adhesive, but which means resetting your gap with the app.)

The speed is the Default Print Speed on the Other tab in S3D - something like 3600 mm/min is good for PLA. You don't want the head rocketing around. Reduce the printing temp as well for tall prints, you want the PLA to cool evenly and quickly. (210°C first few layers, 205°C after, 60° bed temp.)

It is not necessary to leave these settings this way - you want to tailor the settings to what you are trying to print for the best results in the shortest amount of time. Because that case is so tall, you either have to make special speed and temperature considerations, or print with a brim.

Lot of good tips in the Beginner's Guide for dealing with PLA.....if you haven't read it yet, take a look:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3542

[CCRN]

The speed is the Default Print Speed on the Other tab in S3D - something like 3600 mm/min is good for PLA. You don't want the head rocketing around. Reduce the printing temp as well for tall prints, you want the PLA to cool evenly and quickly. (210°C first few layers, 205°C after, 60° bed temp.)

The Makergear M2 profile for Simplify3D out of the box shows 220/70 for the temp defaults. So for PLA, do 210 for layer 1 and 2 then 205 for Layer 3 in the screen shot attached.

I slowed the Default Print Speed down to 3600 from 4800 that was in the profile. I am using PLA to learn with, so not quite ready for a new material.

If I elect to try the pencil case with PLA, what speed would you use? 3600 or slower?

Thank you very much. I would be so lost without the forum.

Jerold

[Jules]

The Makergear M2 profile for Simplify3D out of the box shows 220/70 for the temp defaults.

Yes, I know - those generally run on the high side. It makes for better bonding but introduces problems with heat soak on small layers, and that pencil case looks small.

If I elect to try the pencil case with PLA, what speed would you use? 3600 or slower?

I'd probably start with 3600, but I'd also lower those temps, and include the 0.4 mm jump on retraction. If it fails - I'd go slower.

Do some testing though with something small like a calibration cube first - (thin wall prints with zero top and bottom layers), to see how they stick and print. They are quick, so you won't waste a lot of time and filament. If those turn out okay, then you can start experimenting with other files.

[CCRN]

A cube like the one posted here? viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1964

[jsc]

Hey, that's my model: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3369

If you have good adhesion, and it sounds like you do, there is no problem. I've made two of them now. I print on aluminum plate with glue stick.

My wife sent my Pencil through the wash, and the case protected it enough that it still works.

Definitely run an extrusion calibration as in that thread you linked. And in fact, Jules has written a beginner's guide that you should pay heed to: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3542