I'm using the default bridging settings and would be interested in the group's thoughts on the best settings.
Bridging settings
Bridging settings
Looking to optimize my settings. When bridging, is the thought that the speed should be faster or slower? Using Esun PLA+ with this thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476845, I got these results:
Generally, it looks good, but the first thread of the bridge didn't stick on any of the bridges and ended up curling against the wall.
I'm using the default bridging settings and would be interested in the group's thoughts on the best settings.
I'm using the default bridging settings and would be interested in the group's thoughts on the best settings.
Re: Bridging settings
PLA plus is a little bit more flexible than the regular PLA, so you might need to adjust the bridging speeds to keep it from sagging and breaking. (Which we have to do with PETG.)
I would try something like this to see if it works:
Those are the bridging settings for PETG. If it turns out to be too much, reduce the extrusion multiplier to about 110%, and the speed multiplier to 110% as well.
(And you might want to test it on something a little smaller and easier to print than that stepped spiral. Just create a little open sided box shape for fine tuning the settings.)
I would try something like this to see if it works:
(And you might want to test it on something a little smaller and easier to print than that stepped spiral. Just create a little open sided box shape for fine tuning the settings.)
Re: Bridging settings
Thanks Jules (as always)
I've printed a bunch of tests and learned an important lesson about S3D. It turns out that S3D still uses its perimeter speed settings even when bridging, so those need to be adjusted also. Here is a screen shot of that showing the outer parts of the bridge printing as perimeters and the inner part as a bridge.
As it turns out, the model I printed originally had bridges so thin that only the perimeter settings were being used anyway!
I took your advice and went with a simpler model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:284380
Long story short, slower speed = better bridges with my setup and this filament.
I ended up with the following settings. I'm sure I could have tweaked further, but I'm very happy with the results.
Here is a 100mm bridge using the settings above. Minimal sag and only one easy to clean up string to clean up.
I've printed a bunch of tests and learned an important lesson about S3D. It turns out that S3D still uses its perimeter speed settings even when bridging, so those need to be adjusted also. Here is a screen shot of that showing the outer parts of the bridge printing as perimeters and the inner part as a bridge.
I took your advice and went with a simpler model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:284380
Long story short, slower speed = better bridges with my setup and this filament.
I ended up with the following settings. I'm sure I could have tweaked further, but I'm very happy with the results.
Re: Bridging settings
Cool! You ought to post those bridging settings in Insta's Filament's that Work thread so everybody can use them. (PETG is super oozy and you have to speed it up - I didn't think about the fact that PLA+ isn't as oozy, so slowing it down makes much more sense.)
The other thing most people miss is that first setting - you want to lower it from the default of 50 sq mm, or whatever it is - that's the threshold where the bridging settings kick in. The lower the number, the sooner it kicks in.
The other thing most people miss is that first setting - you want to lower it from the default of 50 sq mm, or whatever it is - that's the threshold where the bridging settings kick in. The lower the number, the sooner it kicks in.
Re: Bridging settings
I ran some bridging tests a while ago, and came to the same conclusion for PLA: slower is better. It's annoying that perimeters that are also bridges aren't handled correctly; on long runs like that, a sagging perimeter can cause the cross bridges to fail.