Help with printing water tight container.

[Expresso]

Hello,

Say that you would like to print a simple cup/bucket (like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:416959/#files) that needs to be water tight. How would you configure the printer settings to achieve water tightness? I tried using the default MakerGear Simplify3D setting but my buckets are leaking (mostly from the corners at the bottom of the bucket).

My next try will be to print the buckets as complete solid (100% infill) and hope that fixes the issue, but before I bother doing that and potentially waste a bunch of plastic, I was wondering if anyone here has have any experience printing water tight containers and was willing to share some tips and tricks to better tackle the issue.

One more thing, I will be using PLA to print the part, I realize that PLA is not the best material to use for this purpose but this is just a temporary solution so no big deal. Also, in case you are wondering why wont I just go to my local home improvement store and buy a bucket already made, the reason is because the bucket that I am printing has some attributes that can't be found on a regular retail bucket.

Thanks.

[3dPrintingMD]

I hate to say something is impossible, but its very improbable.

I have made many vases, with all different settings, none of them have ever been waterproof. All made from PLA.

I have done very thick bottoms, doing like 10-15 solid bottom layers. Have tired multiple walls, with high infill.

Again, don't want to discourage you, and I am sure someone else will add to this, but its not an easy task.

Many will utilize something to coat the inside to make it waterproof.

[sthone]

In my experience even at 100% infill it's not going to be waterproof. You can try coating it with an epoxy... I use "EnviroTex Lite Pour-On High Gloss Finish Epoxy" to seal the fishing lures I make and it works well because its thin enough to work with. If it's something food related though you might want to find a food safe epoxy.

[M3Jim]

This is a common problem with this type of printing. I have attached a paper on the subject. You will have to change the extension back to pdf. I just changed the extension to zip so I could upload it. It is not actually compressed.

From the paper, the best product seems to be BJB TC-1614. It does require heating for best results, but I don't think everyone heats it.

There is a product called XTC-3D. I think somebody on the board here has used it.

I'll have to try sthone's epoxy solution when I get a chance. I have been researching this myself, but I haven't gotten around to trying anything. If you try something, please let us know if it works.

Have a great day,
Jim

[sthone]

I'll have to try sthone's epoxy solution when I get a chance. I have been researching this myself, but I haven't gotten around to trying anything. If you try something, please let us know if it works.

Just a tip if you try the EnviroTex stuff... it's a pretty thin epoxy so depending on what your sealing you might have to rotate the piece as it dries or it will from drips on the low side of the piece. I use a constant rotating rack when I do my lures. (you can actually see a drip on the grey lure because I did that one before the rack was printed.)

[zemlin]

Not saying it's the best stuff, but I used EasyCast 2-part casting resin to seal some parts. A very thin epoxy with a very long cure time. It was very easy to brush on, and it soaked into the part (PETG) quite nicely. I picked it up at the local craft store.

[M3Jim]

sthone: That is a really cool rotating rack. What are you using for a motor?

[sthone]

sthone: That is a really cool rotating rack. What are you using for a motor?

Thanks.

It was a 110V 2.5 Rpm animation gearmotor I bought online at Micro Mark years ago... but the link I have no longer works so they must have recently stopped selling it.

It runs a little hot and was a little expensive anyway so If I did it again I would probably just use a normal 12v brushed gearhead motor and run it off a wall wart.

(If anyones interested... files for the rack are on the Thingyverse.)

[willnewton]

XTC 3D will do it. I use it and am pretty impressed with how it covers prints and smooths them. A little bit goes a very long way. You can easily paint the inside with a brush and it will flow out very smooth. This product really has exceeded my expectations as a finish for 3D prints.

Any runny, pourable epoxy will work. The stuff in the syringes does not flow enough. Use something with a 30-60 minute curing time. Make sure to get up any large buildup as it settles.

Epoxy will exotherm (release heat) as it cures, too much thickness built up in one spot can cause issues. You can actually take advantage of this if you want an accelerated cure, just let it sit in the mixing cup for a bit and it will start to thicken, but you need to catch it at the right viscosity and spread it quickly. For coating though, work fast so it stays thin and flows nicely.

As others have said, even at 100%, multiple walls, etc. there are always pinholes.

[theboz1419]

I 2nd this stuff XTC-3D. It can be found on Amazon. I have not used it that much, but it will seal up a print very nicely