Pros and Cons of PEI/MIC6 vs glass?
Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 2:21 am
First post!
Just got my m2 last week and have put it through dozens of hours of printing already. Ordered a second glass so I can clean/remove parts without interrupting printing.
After ripping off the Kapton which i already ruined with a blade, I scrubbed my glass with Dawn, followed by 99% alcohol rinse followed by a shake-dry and Aqua Net application. The prints when finished were stuck so well to the print that it was a nightmare to remove them and required a razor blade. However, in one corner of a nearly full print bed of parts, i had 2 parts that were peeling up and on the bottom of them, showed obvious signs of lack of fusion to the bed when compared with the other glass-like parts. Prior to this print (10 hours) I leveled the bed carefully. This leads me to believe that the glass is not flat! I cannot prove this until I take it in to work (Machine Shop!) but that got me thinking even more about these MIC6 beds i keep hearing about.
So, my questions are:
Thanks in advance!
Also, why do I get no response from my printer when I do a G90 G1 X 15. ? (the only command I've tried) and how do i read the current absolute position relative to the z height offset? I know how to read the z offset already. Do you guys use the makergear quick start for z offsetting?
Just got my m2 last week and have put it through dozens of hours of printing already. Ordered a second glass so I can clean/remove parts without interrupting printing.
After ripping off the Kapton which i already ruined with a blade, I scrubbed my glass with Dawn, followed by 99% alcohol rinse followed by a shake-dry and Aqua Net application. The prints when finished were stuck so well to the print that it was a nightmare to remove them and required a razor blade. However, in one corner of a nearly full print bed of parts, i had 2 parts that were peeling up and on the bottom of them, showed obvious signs of lack of fusion to the bed when compared with the other glass-like parts. Prior to this print (10 hours) I leveled the bed carefully. This leads me to believe that the glass is not flat! I cannot prove this until I take it in to work (Machine Shop!) but that got me thinking even more about these MIC6 beds i keep hearing about.
So, my questions are:
- From your experience, is the glass warped/being warped by the heat?
- What are the pros and cons of MIC6 vs glass?
- What is the function of PEI?
- Can you order it from a local aluminum supplier cut to size? Is it milled to size?
- Why would you need/want PEI?
- Without PEI, does MIC6 require bead blasting?
- What is the function of PEI?
- Is it just a more resilient Kapton equivalent?
Thanks in advance!
Also, why do I get no response from my printer when I do a G90 G1 X 15. ? (the only command I've tried) and how do i read the current absolute position relative to the z height offset? I know how to read the z offset already. Do you guys use the makergear quick start for z offsetting?