Getting Nylon to stick and still remove easily

[insta]

I have available to me:

Very clean boro
BuildTak permanently adhered to another sheet of boro
Kapton-coated boro
Blue-tape coated boro
PVA slurry
Purple Elmers gluestick
Staples-brand gluestick
Garolite

Taulman 618
Taulman 645
Taulman Bridge

The part is a hollow box (no top surface) that's the worst-case scenario for Nylon -- like 3x4x3" with 1/8" walls. I need it to stick like stink and pop off on command with no warp. Surface finish and dimensions are paramount! I am certainly willing to buy other materials if they'll work well.

[jimc]

good luck! you will have the best luck with bridge. use a big thick brim. taulman recommends pva glue slurry. garolite for me is hit or miss. sometimes the print is bonded so well it rips apart the garolite and other times the part releases mid print. i have used glue stick with bridge. it was ok for small parts i guess. it held but i know it was nowhere near the bond you will need for a big box.

[insta]

I ordered a sheet of FR4 and another sheet of cast Nylon (0.0625") to print to, as well as two spools of Taulman bridge. I guess I'll soon have some updates for my "filaments to print with" thread...

[jimc]

i bet the nylon sheet would be good. i was going to order one a while back but just never got around to it. i wonder if getting the print off of it will be a problem. i would think that your bond could be varied by how close to the bed you are printing and speed of that first layer.

[insta]

So the Nylon sheet was worthless, the G10 was worthless, and the bluetape is woefully underadhered. The print is yanking the tape right off the bed. I know Garolite will stick (and flex), but I have no idea how to get the Nylon off the Garolite.

[1oldclown]

I have been printing 618 on boro that has a piece of office paper glued to it with Elmer's clear water soluble "school glue". I put glue on the glass, spread w squeegee, put paper down, apply a small amount of glue to the paper and squeegee. Heat it up while the glue dries and then print.

You can pull the part of and tear the paper, or flood the boro with water and remove the part gently.

Not flawless, but pretty good.

[insta]

I have been printing 618 on boro that has a piece of office paper glued to it with Elmer's clear water soluble "school glue". I put glue on the glass, spread w squeegee, put paper down, apply a small amount of glue to the paper and squeegee. Heat it up while the glue dries and then print.

You can pull the part of and tear the paper, or flood the boro with water and remove the part gently.

Not flawless, but pretty good.

That's a neat trick, and I may go that route when the garolite fails me. For now I just use one of those snap-off clicky extendable 30 cent razor knives ( http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/6 ... SX522_.jpg ), put it at full extension so its flexy, and slide it under whichever corner has warped the most.

[over-$-pent]

I have had good luck with thin wall nylon parts using a 3 layer raft on 4 layers of glue stick. I know a lot of people don't like using rafts, me included, but it has worked for me when I've tried everything else to get a nylon part to stay put. You can play around with the raft separation setting to get the adhesion you need and still get the part off of the raft. Once the part is off the raft, then you can use a razor knife to lift the raft up and peel it off.

[jimc]

Someone on another forum did some testing recently with different plastics using plastidip sprayed on the bed. Here is the thread on the testing. Pretty interesting.

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php? ... =Plastidip

[rsilvers]

I think the answer is that with PETG, PolyMax, and PC, there are fewer and fewer reasons to use Nylon unless you specifically want a soft/flexible part. Nylon always seems to have soft features, which is not good for the mechanical parts that I tend to print. It is nothing like the glass-filled nylon that strong injection-molded parts are made from for stiffness.