Good Adhesion/Easy Print Removal from Kapton taped bed
Re: Good Adhesion/Easy Print Removal from Kapton taped bed
You have to put the glue on glass that is not hot. If that is not the problem, then maybe it is the thickness of the glue or the gap, or the thickness of your first layer.
-
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2014 11:11 pm
Re: Good Adhesion/Easy Print Removal from Kapton taped bed
How many layers of glue stick do you typically apply? I put on one layer in one direction (say at zero), then the next layer 90 degrees to that one, then the next layer at zero, then the 4th layer at 90 degrees all on an unheated bed. Seems to help fill in any gaps that you might miss applying the glue stick in only one direction. I agree that the glue stick has worked well for everything I have tried. I am using Elmer's all purpose clear.
Re: Good Adhesion/Easy Print Removal from Kapton taped bed
If I am printing PLA I may just use one layer. But then I don't clean the glass between prints, so each print I add another layer until it gets too thick for a nice bottom surface finish for a nice part.
For a tall ABS, nylon, or PC part, I would probably do three layers at 90 degrees to each other - unless there was already buildup on the glass, in which case I would just add one layer.
My first layer is always squashed a bit. If your first layer bead is tall and round - I wouldn't expect that to work. If I am printing 0.1 or thinner layers, then I would turn up first-layer thickness and width. I think I even used 300% for the 50 micron print that I just made so that the first layer was 150 microns. For 150 micron layers, I use about 110 or 120% thickness.
For a tall ABS, nylon, or PC part, I would probably do three layers at 90 degrees to each other - unless there was already buildup on the glass, in which case I would just add one layer.
My first layer is always squashed a bit. If your first layer bead is tall and round - I wouldn't expect that to work. If I am printing 0.1 or thinner layers, then I would turn up first-layer thickness and width. I think I even used 300% for the 50 micron print that I just made so that the first layer was 150 microns. For 150 micron layers, I use about 110 or 120% thickness.
Re: Good Adhesion/Easy Print Removal from Kapton taped bed
This is Matt from 3DXTech - thanks for the props on the 4mil - we love printing on it as well! We sell 1mil, 2mil, and 4mil - but we only use the 4mil since it's so easy to work with and resilient to damage. Seems a little self-serving, but the stuff is great.
Regarding the PLA - we use hairspray or blue tape and our PLA sticks great to either. Our 7" wide rolls are pretty cheap ($26) and don't leave a messy residue on the glass or aluminum…
http://www.3dxtech.com/blue-painters-tape/
Regarding the PLA - we use hairspray or blue tape and our PLA sticks great to either. Our 7" wide rolls are pretty cheap ($26) and don't leave a messy residue on the glass or aluminum…
http://www.3dxtech.com/blue-painters-tape/