MakerGear Forum

mlhmail wrote:Isn't nitrocellulose explosive?!

Will try some of the lower tech / less dangerous (and less likely to have the ATF call me) routes.

Thx!

It's mildly flammable, yes...

They used to make film out of it, it can't be *that* bad :p

Any way I can get a small sample? I'd be happy to prototype bed adhesion tricks. You can leave it unlabelled if you'd like. I have the ability to hit 300C.

They used to make film out of it, it can't be *that* bad :p

The ending of Inglourious Basterds would seem to indicate otherwise. That was a nitrocellulose fire. Here's some real world footage: https://youtu.be/gEz_a-Akufk?t=4m35s

Anyway. That's an entire film canister. A small amount probably wouldn't be as vigorous.

Well, yes, here is more nitrocellulose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cXgZEo334o

I'm thinking we use like half a teaspoon for a full bed though, at that.

also cars used to be painted with it. its lacquer. you can still buy nitrocellulose lacquer for wood finishes. its still used today. kinda crappy but still used for some things.

Making some progress today.

Big improvement - very clean glass + LOTS of Aquanet. I remember the 80's and Aquanet, but never figured I'd be using it on for this!

Best so far - FR4, lightly sanded, nozzle VERY close to board so the extruded plastic gets into the holes… So far this one is pretty good.

More work to do!!

if hairspray is working and you want considerably more stick then use garnier fructise #5. green spray can, black cap. pick it up at walmart. its easily double that of aquanet.

I'm digging the video clips of the nitro.

FR4 seems to be doing a good job. All the initial routes were dead ends, but this seems to be working pretty good.

I have some tape coming that's made out of the same polymer as the filament - this should really do the trick - fingers crossed.

Thanks for all the tips - they have been very helpful - and a few entertaining as well.

jimc wrote:if hairspray is working and you want considerably more stick then use garnier fructise #5. green spray can, black cap. pick it up at walmart. its easily double that of aquanet.

Hey, jimc! I'd been using AquaNet, and it was doing well on MG black PLA, but I was having a little trouble keeping clear PETG on the bed. So I picked up a can of your green genie above. So far, so good, but I haven't run the "big" print on it yet. (I'm doing some calibration pieces first.). I'm looking at the ingredients in the stuff, and I'm seeing straight polyurethane and polyester -- you might as well 3D print your hair.

The first "big" print I did with PETG, I got a VERY rough surface on the top. This was with 3 top layers on top of 10% infill. (Let's just say I'm printing a very light 2x4... close enough...). I'm thinking overextruding, but my multiplier was 0.94, and my calibration pieces are telling me I need to be about 0.98 or so. So maybe a temperature issue? What temps did you run eSun clear PETG at? I know you're using the E3Dv6 and I'm using a MakerGear V4, but I would think our temps would be similar. And full fan, right?

Oops. Sorry to hijack the thread. Back to your "mystery filament"!

Dale

temp at 245. pet doesnt bridge well so when you have low infill it really screws things up. its also a must that the infill goes down nice and clean. a little extra infill extrusion width helps. run that at 140 with my infill no less than 35%. speeds i keep at about 3800mm/min

I would use glue stick on glass. It has worked for everything so far, including PC.

If you want I can try printing it. I can go up to 295C. I suggest going at 3200 mm/min (50% of that on first layer) and having the first layer be 120% thick and having the nozzle be low to lay a wide bead.

Use 0.2mm for layer.

I would be very surprised if I could not make whatever this is stick.