0.65mm extruder nozzle

[bignordique]

I wish to build a large quantity of these things that look like milk cartons
with the top cut off. A pretty simple object.

Not too concerned with resolution or overall accuracy.

Am concerned with print time and material cost.

Somewhat concerned with wall stiffness.

I'm wondering if using a 0.65 mm nozzle would be a good way to
decrease print time? Assuming an integer number of 0.65 mm tracks
is a good answer for the vertical walls, will the 0.65 mm nozzle build the vertical walls faster?

Thanks.

Bignordique

[bignordique]

Went to order the 0.65 mm nozzle (which I think used to be there).. but its no
longer listed.

Anyway... there is a 0.75 mm nozzle that is listed as experimental.

Anybody try the the 0.75 mm nozzle?

And, would it be better to simply buy another complete hotend with the bigger
nozzle rather that messing around trying to swap the nozzle on my current hot end?

Bignordique

[ednisley]

will the 0.65 mm nozzle build the vertical walls faster?

The area ratio suggests that the larger nozzle can extrude 3.4x the plastic (0.75 mm -> 4.6x) than the stock 0.35 mm nozzle, but that won't increase the overall print speed by the same ratio: acceleration and overall speed limits slow the overall motion. Maybe it will cut the elapsed time down by a factor of two.

A 0.75 mm nozzle should get you to a 1 mm thread width and 0.60 mm thickness, but it'll take a bit of experimentation to set up the slicing parameters and get everything tuned properly.

However, V3b and V4 hot ends have a shorter heating zone than the original V3, which puts an upper limit on how fast they can transfer heat to the filament and get the molten plastic up to the proper temperature. I think some folks have already run into that limit, but I don't recall the specifics; plastics like PLA melt at lower temperatures than than ABS or PETG and may give you more headroom.

Dedicating a hot end to the project make sense, because you definitely don't want to break anything while swapping nozzles...

[insta]

I wish to build a large quantity of these things that look like milk cartons
with the top cut off. A pretty simple object.

Not too concerned with resolution or overall accuracy.

Am concerned with print time and material cost.

Somewhat concerned with wall stiffness.

I'm wondering if using a 0.65 mm nozzle would be a good way to
decrease print time? Assuming an integer number of 0.65 mm tracks
is a good answer for the vertical walls, will the 0.65 mm nozzle build the vertical walls faster?

Thanks.

Bignordique

Print one in a good resolution and make a mold, then cast the rest?

If you heard about a 0.65mm nozzle specifically, that was probably me. I drilled out a V3a nozzle to that, and ran the 12v heater core at 19v. I could print PLA at 0.5mm layers at 150mm/sec print speeds ... which is an imperial crapload of plastic. I was using 3mm filament, and not on an M2. The parts were super ugly, but it was the E3D volcano 3 years before they did it. I could print a Prusa i2 frame vertex in 11 minutes (wall time, not estimated) at 40% infill. Seriously go drop one into your slicer and see how long it says it'll take.

[jimc]

ed is right. i use and e3d hot end and their nozzle dia sizes are a little different but have printed with the larger ones which are a .6 and a .8mm. i can tell you i normally use a .6 all the time and have done alot of testing with print speeds. what you will find is that you can only melt plastic so fast. at a .6 nozzle dia printing at a width of .72 and a layer height of .35 or .4 at a print speed of 4000mm/sec that is the max flow you can possibly push out that nozzle. when i use the .8 nozzle i am just shooting myself in the foot. the hot end cant melt the plastic fast enough to push it out the nozzle at a print speed of 4000mm/sec so you end up having to reduce the speed way down or lower the layer height so the flow slows down. if you have to do that then whats the point. your not printing any faster and your just losing resolution and control of the plastic. in a nutshell with a .35-.4 nozzle you are speed limited on back pressure produced by the nozzle. with a big nozzle you are limited by back pressure due to melt speed. once you reach that max flow rate while printing then thats it. its as fast as your printer is going to print. i should note that the speeds will vary depending on hot end and the plastic type. i believe makergear's mid size nozzle is .5mm. just stick with that. i could be wrong but i dont think they ever had a .65mm. there is no point in a .75 really but again plastic type will play a part here. i would imagine a low melt temp plastic like pla would print faster but i have never done testing with that.

[bignordique]

Seriously go drop one into your slicer and see how long it says it'll take

An obviously good idea I hadn't thought of. Thanks.

Print one in a good resolution and make a mold, then cast the rest?

Turns out there are several heights. Easily accomplished with and part of the attraction
of 3d printing.

I should probably stick with the 0.5mm. But before I go there, I'll fiddle around
with the tools and see what they tell me.

And... it seems like I should just buy a whole new extruder with the 0.5mm nozzle. Should
I bother trying to get a v4 nozzle (which appear to be currently unavailable in single nozzle
form) or just stick with the v3b?

bignordique

[insta]

If you're interested I have a 0.50mm V3b nozzle with filament drive. I also have a 0.75mm with its own filament drive as well. Make an offer that's not totally insulting and I'll probably accept it, and it's a lot cheaper than getting a new one

I'm actually getting rid of all my V3b stuff as I finally transitioned everything to v4... I have a bunch of them.

[jsc]

One thing to be aware of, which you may be already: the v4 nozzle is not a drop in replacement for the v3s. You won't be switching back and forth much unless you swap the entire mount.

[bignordique]

I have a 0.50mm V3b nozzle with filament drive.

The filament drive is the printed piece that holds the hot end and bolts to the filament drive motor?

Didn't know V4 takes an entirely new mount. I'm new to 3d printing and M2s. V4 is mostly interesting
for higher temp materials?

Bignordique

[insta]

I have a 0.50mm V3b nozzle with filament drive.

The filament drive is the printed piece that holds the hot end and bolts to the filament drive motor?

Didn't know V4 takes an entirely new mount. I'm new to 3d printing and M2s. V4 is mostly interesting
for higher temp materials?

Bignordique

The V4 is the result of years of research and improvements, just like the V3 was. It's better, but not enough of a game changer to drop everything and upgrade a perfectly working printer without explicit reason. I personally did because the V4s are easier to level, easier to clean, and will do higher temperatures without worry. For me, the biggest win was "easier to clean", since I push a lot of plastic through and if I get a clog I need to get that bum nozzle off the machine ASAP and get it running again. A hobbyist can afford to be down for a day or two blowtorching and soaking a jammed V3.

And yes, my hotends would come with the part that bolts to the motor face as well, if you wanted it.