Totally agree with this - do not use the one with included support. If you run it through S3D with a normal "Generate Support" setting, it actually fills in all the gaps in the designed support.jsc wrote:Oh, hey, I just sliced the one with the included support. You definitely don't want to use that. I was wondering why you guys kept referring to "bridging" when it shouldn't be bridging at all. Well, with the included support model, it doesn't know that it's support and is in fact trying to bridge on the bottom layers. Plus, the "support" is actually a mostly hollow box with beams (scrub the End slider at the bottom to see what the interior looks like) and it will be trying to actually run curves over thin air between the beams; with only three top layers the quality of the top of the support structure will be abysmal. Use S3D supports with 3 dense 80% layers and one top layer separation, and it should do a much better job. Although, it kind of sounds like you already tried that?
Try just letting S3D generate the support for it, using jin's suggested settings for dense top layers - it's going to be a lot smoother on the inside.
I think the interior of that print is curved, not straight, (hence the "terracing"), and it's organic, not a straight angle, (hence the "wiggle"). That'd be a tough one to try to print.
Another thing, after S3D has created it's support, use the scrubber under the picture to see which direction the support has been created in. Ideally, you always want to angle your print on the plate so that the support runs at a 90°angle (perpendicular) to the direction that the first solid layer over it prints. That's not always possible, but i found that if you angle the print on the bed 45° from the x axis, you get the best support for any holes, whether they run parallel to the X axis or the Y axis.
The support for that particular print is definitely improved by the 45° rotation. (Eliminates the stringing in the long slots.)