New project

[3dPrintingMD]

I will say that I can't tell you the full solution at this point in time, but same boat.

Have 1 glass with tape, 1 glass without tape, 1 zebra plate, and a MIC 6 plate on the way.

I've identified that the rubber corners are not perfect, some are significantly bigger or smaller than the others.

I printed out 8 new corners, got 4 that were exactly the same, and that is good for now, however the MIC 6 plate is going to be my main plate, so I will have to let you know how I handle that.

I will have it on Friday and will print out new corners if necessary for that. Keep in mind with the glass so far I've noticed the corners are a bit too small so the plate can move, so I printed out one of the corners with the screw to tighten up the gap. This all might change however when I get the MIC 6 plate.

[Jules]

I'm certainly not trying to print anything nearly as large as what you are printing, but so far I've gotten perfectly flat PLA prints from PEI on a Borosilicate glass plate.

I've never had anything warp up unless i removed it too soon. (But like i said, they do not span the entire bed. Aluminum will work better for heat distribution across the entire plate.)

[Pekish79]

the problem is not the printing is the plate itself is not as flat over 22 cm (the length of the model) as it should be

the plate itself the base is the problem not the material or the filament i just can measure a .08-09 difference between the center of my plate and the edges is not the heat because i measure it when cold anyway it's normal warping of a flat plane suspended on 4 corner gravity is a bitch... and i make sure to curve the zebra plate to remove the part always opposite to what gravity will be

i guess i will live with it i am getting my Mic6 soon too and may go to the extent to remove the rubber corners but i really hate to spary/glue/take i like my zebra ^_^ i will see how it goes but i guess conclusion is.... live with it.

[3dPrintingMD]

Removing the rubber corners does not impact what plate you can use. Right now I have them removed, and am using glass and zebra. The only issue is that the rubber does make the headed bed stable, i.e. not able to shift around.

When I get the MIC 6 plate, my plan is to use blue tape on one side (the smooth side) and then use the other side for hairspray. With the MIC 6 plate being of accurate dimensions, it should fit tight in the corners.

[jsc]

Tooling plate is dimensionally accurate in one plane only. I recommend jimc's printed corner mounts, which use screws to hold any bed in place.

[Pekish79]

i dont think in my case is the rubber the problem is zebra plate that on the 25 cm length has a dip in the center or opposite has a small hill in the center the difference is form center to 11 cm from center around .1 and it slope up slightly as a curve so 8cm both side are almost fine - 16cm lenght print are no problem - 18 the problem is very minimum but once u go 20-22cm lengh there is no way u can calibrate it right

if u fix the edge the center will be too squeezed or to far... i am using a rafting now going for the "too squeezed" option i hope i can detach the piece once is done



and if u try to make it right for the "too close" area you will have warping everywhere in middle because it will be too far in the middle I did try it ah! i could post pic if i didn't throw away the model yet but u got the idea the opposite is true as well on the other side the center is way close and all corner warp up no matter temperature or z-stop there is no way to fix a .1 difference in gap from center to edge on the plate

and really there is no way to fix it without having a super flat plate (i will try the Mic6 and print the screw type corner)

[PcS]

The fix is to simply print a thicker first layer to compensate.

[Pekish79]

sound like a good idea i could make a first layer .3 or .25

[PcS]

It has worked for me . I did not think with the type of things you model and print it would hurt anything either ? I can tell you even with my mic6 plate I still occasionally need to do this. I verified the flatness of my plate with my machine shop guy and my plate is near perfect.

[Pekish79]

yep dimensional wise i really don't care if the first layer is squeezed or not the difference is too small for a architectural model to care about it this is why i don't worry to calibrate the Z height to be perfect if the 2cm block is 2.05 or 1.93 it really doesn't effect me at all

funny thing is that i removed the zebra place and i noticed that the metal heated bed has the exact same curve +.1 from edge to center so perhaps i shouldn't blame the poor zebra i always tought that plate was perfect and blamed it no the one on top