Removing PLA prints

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RipleyLlessur
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2016 12:31 am

Removing PLA prints

Post by RipleyLlessur » Wed Sep 28, 2016 5:54 pm

Hi all. I've been having trouble removing my PLA prints. I am using the Rev. E, kapton tape on a heated bed (55 degrees), with lots of gluestick. After a print finishes I let it cool for a bit, then put it in the freezer for 15-30 mins. When I take it out it is still completely stuck. I have a very thin spatula which I use to pop the prints off. I run it through a knife sharpener to get it real thin. But, despite all this, I pretty much always ruin some of the first layer, where the spatula is entering. I ruin some of the bottom and the side. I try to be aware of the angle of the first layer threads, but I haven't determined the exact best angle to come at it with. Any advice? Thanks

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Jules
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2015 1:36 am

Re: Removing PLA prints

Post by Jules » Wed Sep 28, 2016 6:41 pm

It can be hard to pry them off for sure. Try to get the sharper blade under the very corner (only) and pry up just a little to break the seal. Then you can work a less sharp Cricut Spatula underneath along the edges without damaging anything - all the way around, going a little further underneath each time.

Use gloves. It's so easy to cut yourself when that print lets go.

(I prefer using a PEI surface on mine, which holds up better to tool damage, and does not require glue. There's a plastic cutting tool that works really well on that, but you can't use it on kapton, it will tear it.)

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zemlin
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Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 9:32 pm
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana

Re: Removing PLA prints

Post by zemlin » Thu Oct 13, 2016 11:45 am

#1 rule of working with Kapton is to let it cool completely before trying to remove your parts. If you try to pull off a part while the film is hot, plan on a fresh sheet of film before you use it again.

I never needed glue stick on PLA on Kapton, but I also use PEI for printing PLA these days.

My preferred tool for lifting parts is a long, 1/2" wide wood chisel. With the flat back-side against the build surface, the cutting edge gets under the edge of the part without digging into the build surface, whether Kapton or PEI. Sturdy parts usually pop off the bed as soon as I've lifted a corner. There will sometimes be a little dent in the corner from the chisel tip, but it's very small.

If it needs more help, I have a cake-frosting knife https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB ... UTF8&psc=1
I used 800 grit and then 2000-grit sandpaper to polish the edges on this so there is nothing that will dig into the Kapton film. I slide this under the part where I've lifted the edge with the chisel and work it around to break the rest of the piece free.

vesteroid
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2017 4:45 am

Re: Removing PLA prints

Post by vesteroid » Sat Jan 28, 2017 2:41 pm

I just set up my printer so its box stock and using maker gear pla. I was so eager to see the quality of the prints, I just pulled them off basically as soon as they were done. No hair spray on the bed, just the tape, and all 3 prints stuck fine and came right off in my hand with just a little side motion.

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Jules
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2015 1:36 am

Re: Removing PLA prints

Post by Jules » Sat Jan 28, 2017 3:21 pm

vesteroid wrote:I just set up my printer so its box stock and using maker gear pla. I was so eager to see the quality of the prints, I just pulled them off basically as soon as they were done. No hair spray on the bed, just the tape, and all 3 prints stuck fine and came right off in my hand with just a little side motion.
That will change. Some are easy to pop off, some are not. A lot depends on the shape of what you are removing. 8-)

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