MakerGear Forum

For prying your prints off the bed, I recommend taking a sturdy joint knife (I have this one) and sharpening the end to a chisel grind. But getting it really sharp takes some doing and some equipment. I like to use a DE razor blade to get the lifting started, because I happen to have a lot of them.

I designed one based off of jimc's model, then modified it to add some tabs to retain the razor when pulling back out from under the print, but I was never really happy with how much force you could apply, and it would occasionally slip out. So I've done a third version that uses posts to engage the slots in the razor: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:697672. That blade isn't going anywhere!

It's been a while since I went over to Thingiverse. I caught up on my dashboard updates -- many of which were Jin's. You sure do like to do stuff with razor blades! Does your mom hire someone to keep an eye on you?

Thanks for the refresh JSC, I was having some woes on the original holder as it didnt print nicely and the razor slipped a lot. do you recommend that the shield is printed in the orientation provided or to rotate it standing up?

Definitely rotate. I often neglect to rotate for plating before exporting STLs because most platers will do that. And often, I will have the main model in printing orientation but any secondary parts which were modeled against the primary model will be in whatever orientation they are meant to be attached in. It doesn't help that Fusion 360 swaps Z for Y on export; some machining CAD convention, apparently?

Dale, I recently started safety razor shaving quite a lot, to test some razor designs from a friend (normally I use a straight razor), so I have a lot of DE blades around. But that picker-upper tool was for my wife's medical office, where they use razors for procedures and you don't really want to touch/cut yourself with one. And with so many new blades, I needed somewhere to get rid of them, thus the blade bank.