MakerGear Forum

jimc wrote:just a heads up to those of you that have made these speakers. i replaced my fountek fe85's with tang band W3-881SJF. they sound much nicer. a little brighter and more crisp with decent low end for a 3" speaker.

Jim,
I'm glad you posted this, I was getting ready to order and after comparing specs & reviews on parts-express I had zeroed-in on the exact same model. Glad to hear that they work well, I can now buy with confidence.

cheers,
c

Yes only thing is the hols are all about 1mm off. I had no problem getting them to work out right and getting screws in them. They just go in at a slight angle but you cant really tell since to heads sit in a recess in the speaker. The right thing to do is prob throw the model in some cad software and upscale the left and right so that is correct before you print.

I actually tried importing it into Solidworks, but the STL is so big that it chokes (I wanted to measure the internal volume of the enclosure to double-check against the driver). I can only import it as a graphic entity (not solid) so I can't do anything with it. Perhaps someone with a difference software suite will scale it. I have a few days until my parts start arriving.

Looks like the bolt circle of the Fountek FE85 is 3.29" (83.57mm) and the BC of the Tang Band W3-881SJF is 85mm (3.35")

cheers,
c

Looks like it's close enough to just scale in the slicer.

Target bolt circle is 85mm

Model defaults to 83.57
101% = 84.41
101.5% = 84.82
102% =85.24

I'll just print at 102% and call it good.

cheers,
c

bratag, are you looking for equip and to learn how to paint or airbrush? you cant really paint much with an airbrush. you need spray equipment for that and of course the proper materials for both.

Jim, what do you recommend for bonding the two halves together?

I'm printing in Hatchbox wood, so I was thinking Tightbond (wood glue) or epoxy.

cheers,
c

jimc wrote:bratag, are you looking for equip and to learn how to paint or airbrush? you cant really paint much with an airbrush. you need spray equipment for that and of course the proper materials for both.

I want to get set up with a small starter set. Realise you generally deal with larger parts but wondered if you knew a place to start, Gravity feed vs etc etc. I am looking at compressors etc.

Wood Is all pla. Titebond wood glue is just like elmers white glue so you definately dont want to use that. The proper way to bond pla is to solvent bond it with methylene chloride. Weld-on #4 is availabale on amazon with a needle applicator bottle.

Bratag, ill get back with you on it soon.

Previous thread with information on airbrushing: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1508

jimc wrote:Wood Is all pla. Titebond wood glue is just like elmers white glue so you definately dont want to use that. The proper way to bond pla is to solvent bond it with methylene chloride. Weld-on #4 is availabale on amazon with a needle applicator bottle.

Ditto that; I printed my chess pieces in eSUN wood filament in two halves each and used weld-on #4 to glue them together. Works great.