Show me your sub-100 micron prints!

[mitchfx]

Hello all,

After trying (and returning) the [UNNAMED PRINTER #2] printer and currently using (and keeping) the [UNNAMED PRINTER #1] I am considering getting a 2nd 3d printer. I would like something a little more robust and with a larger build area and have narrowed the choices down to the M2 and [UNNAMED PRINTER #3].

I print all of my parts at 100 micron on the [UNNAMED PRINTER #1] using Simplify 3d since surface quality is really important to me. The [UNNAMED PRINTER #2] actually had a little better results in this area but the printer was riddled with other issues. I see that the M2 will go below 0.10mm layer height although that is the recommended minimum Z resolution.

I would be interested to see detailed prints from you guys that were printed at 100 microns or better on the M2 so I can compare to my current print quality as well as [UNNAMED PRINTER #3].

Thanks,
M

[sthone]

There's this..... http://www.makergear.com/blogs/frontpag ... crons-i-am

-Steve

[insta]

I kinda want them to redo that print, or at least show the nickle for scale.

@mitch, having owned both an M2 and an Ultimaker, I could more easily get ultra-high-resolution prints out of the Ultimaker, due to the gantry system it used. That said, I now own 3 M2s and 0 Ultimakers because the UM pissed me off and was unreliable and fiddly, while the M2 worked day after day. I know it's not what you asked for, and somebody else will chime in with their low-layer-height prints, but I'm just throwing in my 2 cents on that front.

The 0.1mm recommended resolution is for a few reasons, but the primary one is that it's the lowest forgiving layer height you can go to. The mechanical system is smooth enough to do the 0.02mm prints (I'd stick with multiples of 0.04 so you land on full steps on Z but whatever). If you are willing to do the meticulous calibration necessary (on a per spool basis), dial in all the steps/mm exactly, flow rate, and all that, you can reliably hit 20/40-micron layer heights. If you just punch "1.75" in for the filament diameter and leave every setting stock, well, you're not getting those resolutions out of any printer.

[thunderbt3]

Sorry for cell phone quality and mediocre lighting...
100 micron on the left vs 50 micron on the right.
I did not optimize settings for the 50 micron print, I just used the 100 micron settings since I was lazy and wanted to see what the M2 could do. It could probably use a little bit more retract to help with the little bit of stringing in the crevices of the tooth crowns.
My friend owns an Objet Dental 3d printer and he wanted me to print some samples for him to compare his 25-30 micron prints.

[jsc]

This was done at .10mm: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:74997

[mitchfx]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I totally agree on the points made about the need for tedious calibration to get reliable results out of 50 micron or less prints, and in most cases a really good 100 micron part would make me very happy. I'm getting some surprisingly good surfaces out of the [UNNAMED PRINTER] and Simplify3d at 0.10mm layer height. My main reasons for wanting to upgrade are for the larger build volume, long term durability and ability to tweak settings in firmware like acceleration (to reduce ringing, etc). It would also be good be able to have two prints going at once

[UNNAMED PRINTER #2] was kicking out some of the very best, if not the VERY best, FFF detail I've ever seen. At 70 microns you could barely see any layer lines but, yes, it was slow. Not to mention that machine was LOUD as hell, the cartridges jammed constantly, the software sucked and prints had horrible artifacts on curved top surfaces.

I've done a few tests on the [UNNAMED PRINTER] at 50 and 80 microns and they are every so slightly better than at 100, but it obviously needs to be set juuuuust right. Let me gather up some photos to show what I've been printing and post here.

[jimc]

i have nothing to show but in the past i have done low layer prints. not to often but i have done them. my usual higher quality layer height is done at .15mm. i can take those settings and drop them all the way down to .08 on the m2 without changing anything. just change the layer height in s3d and your good to go. probably not 100 optimized but i was 98% there. below .8 though i would imagine it to be very tricky and not worth the effort since at .08 there were next to no layer marks at all. only place i really find the low heights useful is on a very steep overhang. it makes the steps alot smoother.

[mitchfx]

Here is an example of what I'm getting on the [UNNAMED PRINTER] at 100 microns. If I can consistently get something along these lines of quality on the M2 but with less ringing I would be a happy camper. Unfortunately the Dremel doesn't have any way to adjust Jerk and Acceleration settings in the firmware, so to reduce ringing you have to slow down the entire outer perimeter speed.

FullSizeRender.jpg

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[jimc]

Those ripples on the cheek, is that in the model or is that excessive ringing?

[mitchfx]

Yes, it is ringing as I mentioned in the post. Some of it is the actual wrinkles in the old man zbrush sculpture too. I will post a screengrab of the 3d model tomorrow. The ringing is one of the of the downsides of my other [brand must remain unnamed due to forum rules**] printer. Hoping the M2 will alleviate that.

**please realize this is a joke and done in good humor