An exercise for getting more practice in finishing. Printed in two halves, front and back, to dramatically reduce print time and supports. .20mm, so the ridging around his belly and back were pretty noticeable. One coat of XTC-3D, then sanded to try to smooth him out a little, then multiple coats of SEM primer, then some more sanding to fix my mistakes, then some more primer because I had sanded all the way through in some areas, then some more sanding, then yet another coat of primer....
In retrospect, I think the right thing would have been to apply multiple XTC-3D coats, sand that smooth, then do just a few paint coats. The groove filling and self leveling is better and you can sand it harder.
Baymax
Re: Baymax
He looks very smooth! Great job on him! 
I tried some of the XTC-3D on a piece, but it had parts that have to fit together and turn, and I after I finished with the filler and paint, I had to sand the dickens out of the knobs to make it fit back together again.
Do like the results though - next time I'll just try to go with thinner coats.
I tried some of the XTC-3D on a piece, but it had parts that have to fit together and turn, and I after I finished with the filler and paint, I had to sand the dickens out of the knobs to make it fit back together again.
Do like the results though - next time I'll just try to go with thinner coats.
Re: Baymax
there you go jin. nice job!
the trick with any epoxy coating is timing. you want to mix and apply the first coat of it. let it half way kick off. it wants to stiffen up so its not sticky but also not fully cured. basically you still want to be able to stick your fingernail in it and leave a dent in the coating but also be able to very lightly slide your finger across the finish without it sticking to it. once you reach that point its ready to go for another coat. you dont want to wait longer because if its cured too much the second coat wont bond to the first. now if you can get this right you can apply coat after coat building it up as thick as you want without sanding. once it built up thick you can then sand it smooth without cutting through to the plastic. after its all sanded its ready for paint. usually a 400grit finish is good for a primer or epoxy undercoat.
the trick with any epoxy coating is timing. you want to mix and apply the first coat of it. let it half way kick off. it wants to stiffen up so its not sticky but also not fully cured. basically you still want to be able to stick your fingernail in it and leave a dent in the coating but also be able to very lightly slide your finger across the finish without it sticking to it. once you reach that point its ready to go for another coat. you dont want to wait longer because if its cured too much the second coat wont bond to the first. now if you can get this right you can apply coat after coat building it up as thick as you want without sanding. once it built up thick you can then sand it smooth without cutting through to the plastic. after its all sanded its ready for paint. usually a 400grit finish is good for a primer or epoxy undercoat.
Re: Baymax
NIce work Jin! And good tips Jim.