Trying to get my M2 back in working order.

[classicvideogamer]

Hi Guys,

Thanks so much for trying to help me out with this. It's really frustrating that the printer got to this state so quickly...

Here are the things I got from this thread that I still have to try out & report back this week :

• try to print out the bracelet/
  • • I'm currently using Simplify 3D software
    • Check the tightness of the belts
    • I'm trying to print this from thingiverse - it is mostly printed only can't print the last 2 pieces: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16909/
    • Find out where the Gear Set screw is, so I can make sure it is tight
    • Print something while taking a video

Let me know if I missed anything. Thanks again !

[Tim]

For the record, thing:16909 claims that various pieces have been tweaked from the original, apparently to remove the non-manifold problems. But also, if you are using Simplify3D, then any non-manifold weirdness that caused the slicer grief should show up in the tool path view. So it sounds more like a mechanical problem.

[classicvideogamer]

Tried to print the bracelet, but it was a total failure. I'm even a little confused about nozzle temp now. Previously I believe that I used 190, but this print specified 215 - so not sure if that plays into this at all.


It actually started off printing ok, but that didn't last too long.

https://youtu.be/ciTGcjM3xds

Here are some pictures, that show different views of the hot mess.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k73dckrmol6jp ... 6.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kr3ul9bhe3aj9 ... 3.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l8gw5tt49wc8m ... 0.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ns0a52oovk6p2 ... 2.jpg?dl=0

Please help if you can.

[jimc]

something looks very strange with that bracelet. it doesnt look like its skipping steps rather than the bracelet has rotated while you were printing it. when you were done printing was is still firmly stuck to the bed all the way around? are you using any adhesive of any kind on the glass? it does look like it is actually printing fine but there is some sort of alignment issue happening. something is moving causing that. either the print, the hot end, extruder motor, bed is loose.... not sure what. something printed with straight side walls might be easier to tell. the facets of the bracelet make it difficult to see how everything aligns. perhaps just a plain cube.

[classicvideogamer]

I ended up apply some hair spray to the glass after reading it in either this thread or some other thread on these boards. So who ever recommended that thanks ! I'm pretty shocked that makes a big difference I thought that was the whole point of the heated bed, to help things stick, right ?

So do I need to clean the hairspray off after each print ? Also what is good to clean it off with ? Thanks so much guys ! .

Jeff

[Matt_Sharkey]

bed adhesion is the bane of any beginner, period. I tried out the purple gluesticks and they always stuck to good, couldn't get parts to release. I would also always get kapton tape wrong. I never tried hairspray and I probably should have a year ago. Now I have come full circle and well...

I thought that was the whole point of the heated bed, to help things stick, right ?

that's all I do now.

You have to learn the temperaments of your material, some like to be squished onto the glass, some don't. having a spot on calibration is key, and it requires a finesse I only picked up on about 2 months ago. and finally there are printing strategies that should be observed. Thin connection to the plate should be given a nice sized brim. avoid printing narrow towers like pillar supports if you can. print a calibration box every now and again to make sure you're all peachy (every 100 hours without any changes should be fine)

[Jules]

I ended up apply some hair spray to the glass after reading it in either this thread or some other thread on these boards. So who ever recommended that thanks ! I'm pretty shocked that makes a big difference I thought that was the whole point of the heated bed, to help things stick, right ?

So do I need to clean the hairspray off after each print ? Also what is good to clean it off with ? Thanks so much guys ! .

Jeff

No, just clean it off when it gets uneven - keep giving it a light coat between prints - it keeps on sticking like a champ. (I'd clean the plate every dozen prints or so, and then lay down a fresh heavy base coat.)

[Tim]

So do I need to clean the hairspray off after each print ? Also what is good to clean it off with ?

Cleans off under the tap with hot water, maybe with a bit of scrubbing with a sponge. Usually lasts for half a dozen to a dozen prints, but it depends. . . if the print wants to stick to the hairspray too well, the hairspray comes off, which you can tell because the glass is, well, glassy, but the hairspray gives it a more satin or matte look. If you see bare spots, and especially if you're going to print the same thing again in the same spot, then apply it again.

I personally recommend the pump-spray bottles rather than the aerosol spray bottles. It's much more directed and goes directly on the glass, not on everything around it, which makes it possible to apply more without removing the glass first. Although hairspray is, as you probably know, flammable, so a bit of caution is probably wise.

[insta]

Heh, I just willy-nilly coat the bed with hairspray right on the machine. It's only recently I noticed some PETG cobwebs on the underside of the X gantry that're nicely styled now

[Tim]

a bit of caution is probably wise.

Well, you know, do-as-I-say-not-as-I-do. I tore the word "caution" out of my dictionary (along with "cauliflower", "causeway", "cavalier", ...).