Please see image link: https://i.redd.it/hzcpvozjazly.jpg
The model at the top is a print I ran a week ago on the same settings at the one on the bottom I printed today. For reasons, I can't figure out, the levels have stopped printing in a solid and even finish.
It also looks like stuff becomes stuck in the filament as it prints. I have taken a look at both model settings and they were built and printed on the same settings. I thought the issue might be that we changed filament companies but our IT guy doesn't think that would cause this issue.
Previous: MakerGear PLA 3D Printing Filament 1.75mm diameter
Current: Hatchbox PLA Filament 1.75mm diameter
We have also cleaned up the outside of the nozzle. Any ideas would be really appreciated!
Makergear M2 - Floor now porous not solid
Re: Makergear M2 - Floor now porous not solid
It looks like an under-extrusion or an extrusion width problem. If you have not changed your settings, try a new nozzle or take your old one off and clean it out to see if that helps. You may just have to increase your extrusion rate if it is not a nozzle problem. You might make sure that the filament is getting pulled in smoothly and is not slipping as well.
Re: Makergear M2 - Floor now porous not solid
Have you measured the actual filament diameters and set the new diameter into the slicer?elleirda wrote:the issue might be that we changed filament companies but our IT guy doesn't think that would cause this issue
If the new filament is 1.70 mm instead of 1.75 mm, then the printer will be extruding 6% less plastic than the slicer expects. If the old filament was on the high side at 1.80 mm, then you're getting 11% less plastic. All those diameters lie inside the usual ±0.05 mm tolerance, but produce dramatically different results when the slicer doesn't know what it's using.
After setting the filament diameter, have you run off a calibration square to verify that the actual thread width matches whatever you've told the slicer to produce (or whatever it's decided to produce)?
If not, then you may get overstuffed or understuffed infill areas, because the slicer assumes when it calls for a 0.40 mm thread width, that's what the printer actually produces.
As a rule of thumb, any time you change the filament, measure its diameter, tell the slicer, then run off a calibration square to verify that the actual results match the slicer's assumptions. One little square takes a few minutes, but can prevent hours of heartache & confusion.
Also: the pillowy appearance of the top object suggests you need either more top layers or a higher infill density to support the layers.