So where's the all-metal motor mounts?

[Pekish79]

Funny thing is that he could sell his M2 for another of "THE OTHER ONE" that print so well i am sure lot of people would love to buy his used one as he seem to be the only one that still dont know how to print nicely with his one

[jimc]

the whole motor mount is a solid piece. its really rigid. if your oozing then you need to dial in your settings to control that.

[swbluto]

Funny thing is that he could sell his M2 for another of "THE OTHER ONE" that print so well i am sure lot of people would love to buy his used one as he seem to be the only one that still dont know how to print nicely with his one

Lol. There's issues which are impossible to solve. When you have a broken engine, having all the driving know-how in the world isn't going to help.

Btw, I'm already buying more printers without selling the M2. Also, I can print 95% of the things on thingiverse QUITE NICELY, but the M2 can't print out 80% of MY HIGHLY DETAILED DESIGNS. Big difference, there. You're comparing apples to oranges, and there's no way you could print my highly detailed models on your printer nicely at a reasonable speed.

Btw, the reason why my products sell so incredibly well - They're awesomely highly detailed. Imagine THAT! People prefer Mona Lisa's to kindergartner drawings, weird.

[jimc]

well since almost everyone else can get great prints from their m2 and it has a near flawless feedback and track record then apparently it isnt the engine thats broke. its the guy behind the wheel. any 3d printer will only print as good as the person is setting up the file. since you arrived on the forum everyone has tried to help you and give you advise on what to do but you continue to tell everyone they are wrong then you seem to think you have the answer yourself. if you know everything already why do you continue to ask questions and have problems.

[swbluto]

If your oozing then you need to dial in your settings to control that.

I can control it, but it doesn't get rid of it completely. No matter how much I control it, it causes defects in other places. I've found, the more the M2 'hops around', the higher the retraction needs to be. However, the higher the retraction, the larger the gaps between layer changes. The amount of "hops" it does depends on the model, and that's highly variable. Finding the "magic number" for every single model of mine is highly impractical.

The question is, why does it ooze in the first place? Can it be solved and how? Obviously none of my replicators have this issue, so it's potentially curable.

(Btw, mr.presumption, the fact I'm asking the questions above indicates I don't think I know everything. However, I sure as hell know my printer better than almost anyone here and I won't pretend otherwise. After you've printed roughly 600+ models, you get a pretty good feel for what your printer can and can't do.)

[Pekish79]

we would like to see the amazing print that u cannot do because if u go in the section "Printed Object Showcase" a lot of people show pretty nice jobs i must agree is the guy behind the wheel

this said i would be the first one buying the metal mount because it's a nice upgrade.

[swbluto]

No one is answering my question! Why does it ooze in the first place? Insulting me isn't going to resolve this intractable problem at scale. (By scale, I'm talking about 1000+ HIGHLY DETAILED models. That printed showcase has nothing on my level of detail.)

If I need a different extruder or extruder motor, it'd be nice to know which one(s).

[jimc]

all hot ends on every printer ooze. hot plastic expands and makes pressure in the hot end. just the way it is. now the amount of melted plastic in the hot end will cause more or less ooze. im not sure which hot end your running. if its the older v3b then this is an older tech classic style hot end with no real heat break and it has a large hot zone. its a little harder to control ooze with this style. the newer tech hot ends like makergear's v4, e3d's v6 and many others have a heat break with a small and sharp hot zone. these are a little snappier and easier to control.

guy behind the wheel......wasnt meant to be an insult. just saying its they guy setting up the file that makes the big difference.

[swbluto]

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=346

Oh, the E3D is .4mm. So is my replicator's hotend. I wonder if there's anything behind this .4mm/lack-of-ooze connection? Yeah, I'm running the V3B .35mm hotend.

http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6

High Quality Printing.
We've kept our sharp thermal transition that gives the high quality printing performance users have come to expect from E3D hotends. A sharp thermal break gives better control over filament output so you get more immediate start and stops when extruding as well as retracts that are more effective in combatting ooze. For the user this means sharper more accurate prints that have less stringing, oozing or blobs on the prints.

It seems that E3D knows their stuff. This is reassuring, so obviously I just need to upgrade to an E3D V6. I just hope that isn't very complicated, lol. Time to look for some E3D install threads.

[Pekish79]

guess u didnt answer mine to show your prints that come so nice and so horrible on M2... ^_^ and you got ur answer about the ooze can we see the prints?