Why does S3D print the tiniest paths first? Always lifts

[swbluto]

Kapton tape likes to develop bubbles on heated beds, I've noticed, imprinting on the surface of your otherwise (nearly) perfect glassy mirror finish. And, ABS slurry imparts an ugly surface finish akin to a tarnish.

But, yes, ABS on bare glass requires particular care on detailed bottom layers and I'm bound and determined to master it at all odds.

Had you given any thought to a PEI surface? Mirror finish, holds like a "son-of-a-b" until it cools, no adhesive, works with ABS at lower temps than bare glass, so you don't wait as long for the heatup, and you won't have to jump through so many hoops trying to get perfect finishes on your bottom layer. Jdacal posted a picture of the mirror-like finish he got with the smooth side on a PEI sheet. It's pretty amazing.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2296&start=40

Picture is on the 5th page.

I've had experience with Plexiglass and Acrylic build plates which worked great but they definitely had there downfalls mainly due to melting/scarring/etc. however, looking at this at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyetherimide , I like this:

The glass transition temperature of PEI is 217 °C.

Just at around the same temperature I print out my ABS. This seems like a promising material. Do you know how it holds up over 100+ prints? (Plexiglass/acrylic would start to get ugly with the ABS residue left behind and it was impossible to remove.)

[Jules]

Do you know how it holds up over 100+ prints? (Plexiglass/acrylic would start to get ugly with the ABS residue left behind and it was impossible to remove.)

Nope, haven't had it long enough, but some of the other guys might have some input on it. i just recently became a convert.

[swbluto]

Do you know how it holds up over 100+ prints? (Plexiglass/acrylic would start to get ugly with the ABS residue left behind and it was impossible to remove.)

Nope, haven't had it long enough, but some of the other guys might have some input on it. i just recently became a convert.

Just asked on the thread. It seems that PEI has the same "White markings" that's also left behind on Plexiglass/acrylic beds when printing with ABS (Permanent markings in the case of plexiglass/acrylic and wouldn't surprise me if it was also permanent with the PEI.), based on the thread originator's experiences, so the next question is about whether it impacts print quality on the bottom layer.

[Jules]

......anyone who wants to emulate my techniques and resulting resounding success. Ideally, that'd be people who could implement it like, uhhh, programmers.

I'm hoping you also posted your programming technique/solution on the S3D forum? No one who deals with the programming side of things for that software is ever going to see it here, and it will never be implemented. (But the developers at S3D are excellent at implementing the things that people ask for in subsequent updates when they can.)

[Jules]

.......the next question is about whether it impacts print quality on the bottom layer.

The only time I've seen white marks on the bottom of the prints was when I tried to remove it before it cooled enough. The white marks are from bending the plastic. (It really does grip while it's warm.)

[swbluto]

......anyone who wants to emulate my techniques and resulting resounding success. Ideally, that'd be people who could implement it like, uhhh, programmers.

I'm hoping you also posted your programming technique/solution on the S3D forum?

I don't post to the S3D forums because they excessively moderate forum posts. (Every post needs approval which takes 3-24 hours to approve? No thanks. 3-24 hour lag times effectively prevents active conversations, making it kind of useless as a forum.)

I'm just hoping someone from M2 sees it, then they pester someone at S3D because it seems like M2 & S3D have some kind of special partnership.

[swbluto]

.......the next question is about whether it impacts print quality on the bottom layer.

The only time I've seen white marks on the bottom of the prints was when I tried to remove it before it cooled enough. The white marks are from bending the plastic. (It really does grip while it's warm.)

That's what I suspected, fatigued plastic. So I'm guessing it probably wouldn't affect future print quality - can you confirm?

[Jules]

I don't post to the S3D forums because they excessively moderate forum posts. (Every post needs approval which takes 3-24 hours to approve? No thanks. 3-24 hour lag times effectively prevents active conversations, making it kind of useless as a forum.)

I'm just hoping someone from M2 sees it, then they pester someone at S3D because it seems like M2 & S3D have some kind of special partnership.

Don't think the folks from MakerGear hang out on this forum all the time either - they're rather busy building machines and developing/testing new products. (Good thing! )

And S3D has no special relationship with MakerGear, it's used on dozens of different kinds of printers. (One of the reasons it's so hard to implement changes in the programming. It has to work for ALL the impacted printers.)

Tedious as it is, the S3D forum is probably going to be your best bet for getting your idea seen. If they're like other forums, usually just your first few posts are moderated, until they decide you aren't trying to spam the site. Then you can probably converse away with someone who also programs, and maybe the idea won't die away.

[Jules]

.......the next question is about whether it impacts print quality on the bottom layer.

The only time I've seen white marks on the bottom of the prints was when I tried to remove it before it cooled enough. The white marks are from bending the plastic. (It really does grip while it's warm.)

That's what I suspected, fatigued plastic. So I'm guessing it probably wouldn't affect future print quality - can you confirm?

Probably not. That is to say, i don't see white marks on any prints after the one that i pulled off too soon.

[jimc]

as with most forums only your first couple few posts are moderated over there. after that your fine.