Bed won't heat after moving unit.
Bed won't heat after moving unit.
Newbe here. Using Pronterface, I can get the bed to move in X,Y,Z and filament to feed by I can't get anything else to work; bed won't heat, and M2 won't print. Looked over everything but I lost as to what even to look for. any help would be appreciated.
Re: Bed won't heat after moving unit.
If your print is configured to wait for bed to come up to temp before starting and it doesn't heat, the print won't continue. But you can configure S3D (and others) to send the bed temperature setting WITHOUT waiting for it to come up to temp, which may let you continue.
The firmware won't let the extruder motor run unless the nozzle is up to a certain temperature. I think the default value for this threshold is 170C. So you have to get the nozzle that hot before you can jog the extruder motor.
Can you jog the axes?
For the bed, check the red connector at the back of the bed. See if the wires on either side have flexed to the point of breaking. And make sure the power supply connection for bed heat is secure, The power supply connection is the far left two (of the six) pins on the back of the Rambo (left from the point of view of looking at the board from the FRONT of the printer). For older M2s, this is where the 12V brick plus in.
IF THIS CONNECTION TO THE Rambo WORKS LOOSE, the high current can make it overheat resulting in a melted connector and/or badly burned/corroded connector pins. You'll have to replace the connectors (the male pins and shell on the board, AND the female sockets/screws connector on the power supply cable. This has been a problem some people have had on the 19V / 12V (dual brick) older M2s.
Is the nozzle heating?
What are the thermistor readings? Do the nozzle and bed read room temperature on you machine control software (e.g., 20-something C), or do they read zero? If zero, you'll need to fix the thermistor (sensor) connections before the firmware will let you turn on the heat.
Check these out and get back to us, and we'll narrow it down further.
Dale
The firmware won't let the extruder motor run unless the nozzle is up to a certain temperature. I think the default value for this threshold is 170C. So you have to get the nozzle that hot before you can jog the extruder motor.
Can you jog the axes?
For the bed, check the red connector at the back of the bed. See if the wires on either side have flexed to the point of breaking. And make sure the power supply connection for bed heat is secure, The power supply connection is the far left two (of the six) pins on the back of the Rambo (left from the point of view of looking at the board from the FRONT of the printer). For older M2s, this is where the 12V brick plus in.
IF THIS CONNECTION TO THE Rambo WORKS LOOSE, the high current can make it overheat resulting in a melted connector and/or badly burned/corroded connector pins. You'll have to replace the connectors (the male pins and shell on the board, AND the female sockets/screws connector on the power supply cable. This has been a problem some people have had on the 19V / 12V (dual brick) older M2s.
Is the nozzle heating?
What are the thermistor readings? Do the nozzle and bed read room temperature on you machine control software (e.g., 20-something C), or do they read zero? If zero, you'll need to fix the thermistor (sensor) connections before the firmware will let you turn on the heat.
Check these out and get back to us, and we'll narrow it down further.
Dale
Re: Bed won't heat after moving unit.
First off, thanks so much for responding to my call, I really appreciate it.
I am now using Simplex3D for everything. Unit jogs just fine, X, Y, and Z. Unit extrudes just fine---temp for nozzle shows fine. Bed dead---Don't know how to get around unit not printing if the bed doesn't come up to temp. As I watch communications- M105 keeps getting sent and received comes back with OK t:39.0/0.0 B:23.0/00@:0. I would like to get it to print without the bed coming to temp, but I would also like to fix the bed.
I am now using Simplex3D for everything. Unit jogs just fine, X, Y, and Z. Unit extrudes just fine---temp for nozzle shows fine. Bed dead---Don't know how to get around unit not printing if the bed doesn't come up to temp. As I watch communications- M105 keeps getting sent and received comes back with OK t:39.0/0.0 B:23.0/00@:0. I would like to get it to print without the bed coming to temp, but I would also like to fix the bed.
Last edited by caddman11 on Fri Oct 03, 2014 4:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Bed won't heat after moving unit.
It's also showing that my be temp is 23C.
Re: Bed won't heat after moving unit.
When I tell it to print, a "Pre-heating progress bar" in the lower left corner indicates about 1/3. In the machine control panel, it will not turn on the bed.
Re: Bed won't heat after moving unit.
You may have a broken bed wire.
You can print PLA just fine over painter's tape without heating the bed, many people do.
You can print PLA just fine over painter's tape without heating the bed, many people do.
Re: Bed won't heat after moving unit.
caddman11,
Are you comfortable using a voltmeter or multimeter? It would be helpful if you could take some voltage and resistance measurements at various points in the circuit. This will help us tell where the break is -- power supply, wiring, RAMBo board, heater, wherever. For example:
1. Tell the bed to heat, and measure the voltage across the power input terminals on the RAMBo (the two pins closest to the left side of the printer, viewed from the front. If there's 12 volts (if you have two power bricks, older M2) or 24 volts (if you have the single 24 volt power supply, newer M2), then the power supply is OK and the break is further "downstream".
2. Then open up the electronics enclosure and find the connector with the wires from the harness that take power to the heater on the bed. Measure the voltage there. If it's 12-ish / 24-ish volts (a LITTLE lower is OK, a LOT lower is not), then the RAMBo and its circuits and fuse are OK. Check the wiring from here to the heater.
3. If #2 reads bad, and your RAMBo has a blue automotive-ish fuse (thing labeled with the number '15', meaning a 15-amp fuse), you can pull the fuse and use the resistance setting on the meter to see if the fuse is open (infinite resistance, bad) or low resistance (good fuse). If the fuse is bad, your RAMBo board (expensive) could very well be fine and you just replace the blown fuse. (Fuses are awesome precisely because they are way cheaper than the expensive parts they protect!)
And so on and so on.... process of elimination type of thing.
In my limited personal experience, and based on what I've read on the board, the two primary causes for the bed not heating are:
1. Loose, melted and/or corroded connector on the two left-side pins of the 6-pin power connector at the back of the RAMBo, and
2. Flexed-to-the-point-of-breaking wire at the back of the heated bed, on one side or the other of the red connector (usually the side toward the back of the printer).
Not trying to be condescending (if you already know this stuff); trying to educate a bit (in case you haven't had the opportunity to debug circuits). I'm a ham radio operator (old hobby) and control systems engineer (long career), so this stuff is second nature and sometimes (often) I assume people "just know how to do this" -- guess I'm trying to gauge your comfort level with doing these sorts of checks. Hope I'm being clear and helpful -- if not, justsayso!
Dale
Are you comfortable using a voltmeter or multimeter? It would be helpful if you could take some voltage and resistance measurements at various points in the circuit. This will help us tell where the break is -- power supply, wiring, RAMBo board, heater, wherever. For example:
1. Tell the bed to heat, and measure the voltage across the power input terminals on the RAMBo (the two pins closest to the left side of the printer, viewed from the front. If there's 12 volts (if you have two power bricks, older M2) or 24 volts (if you have the single 24 volt power supply, newer M2), then the power supply is OK and the break is further "downstream".
2. Then open up the electronics enclosure and find the connector with the wires from the harness that take power to the heater on the bed. Measure the voltage there. If it's 12-ish / 24-ish volts (a LITTLE lower is OK, a LOT lower is not), then the RAMBo and its circuits and fuse are OK. Check the wiring from here to the heater.
3. If #2 reads bad, and your RAMBo has a blue automotive-ish fuse (thing labeled with the number '15', meaning a 15-amp fuse), you can pull the fuse and use the resistance setting on the meter to see if the fuse is open (infinite resistance, bad) or low resistance (good fuse). If the fuse is bad, your RAMBo board (expensive) could very well be fine and you just replace the blown fuse. (Fuses are awesome precisely because they are way cheaper than the expensive parts they protect!)
And so on and so on.... process of elimination type of thing.
In my limited personal experience, and based on what I've read on the board, the two primary causes for the bed not heating are:
1. Loose, melted and/or corroded connector on the two left-side pins of the 6-pin power connector at the back of the RAMBo, and
2. Flexed-to-the-point-of-breaking wire at the back of the heated bed, on one side or the other of the red connector (usually the side toward the back of the printer).
Not trying to be condescending (if you already know this stuff); trying to educate a bit (in case you haven't had the opportunity to debug circuits). I'm a ham radio operator (old hobby) and control systems engineer (long career), so this stuff is second nature and sometimes (often) I assume people "just know how to do this" -- guess I'm trying to gauge your comfort level with doing these sorts of checks. Hope I'm being clear and helpful -- if not, justsayso!
Dale
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Capt. John
- Posts: 271
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- Location: Manistee, MI
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Re: Bed won't heat after moving unit.
Red wire to my heated bed broke. MG sent me another one.
That's the first place I'd look,
That's the first place I'd look,
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Re: Bed won't heat after moving unit.
First off---I wish to thank all of those who have responded and for those who will respond but have not yet done so. I got the printer in mid August so I sure it's the update version. Fuse is good.
1.I checked the inputs on the back of the unit and enclosed pictures of what I check and the results. 28 volts
2.Check the voltage coming out of the RAMBo board and also saw 28 volts
3. I pulled the rubber coating off the back of the bed and check for voltage there, NOTHING. If I pull the black twisted pair of wire that go towards the center of the RAMBo board the temp in the software goes to zero.
All connectors see good, no melting
1.I checked the inputs on the back of the unit and enclosed pictures of what I check and the results. 28 volts
- PA061865A.jpg (222.15 KiB) Viewed 16080 times
- PA061867A.jpg (247.78 KiB) Viewed 16080 times
- PA061868a.jpg (165.76 KiB) Viewed 16080 times
Re: Bed won't heat after moving unit.
Follow the wires from the bed back about 2 ½ “ back under the black protective sleeve there is a connector. I bet yours came unplugged I have had this happen.