Another case of lifting corners

[thunderbt3]

In my experience with cleaning HBP glass with any sort of glass cleaner is to ensure there's no residue left on the glass from the glass cleaner. I also clean the glass only when it's fully cooled to room temperature. If the glass is slightly warm, the solvents in the glass cleaner flash evaporate and residue gets left behind. I also use acetone to get glass super squeaky clean. I've even borrowed the wife's nail polish remover to clean the bed since it contains acetone.

My usual procedure is clean the glass after every print with a clean paper towel. After about 10-12 prints, I'll clean the glass with acetone/nail polish remover.

[Mike Hunter]

THANKS to everyone for the tips.
I've done most of them already, first layer at 140% and 60% feed, infill anywhere from 15-30% depending on part design and usage, a solid infill layer on parts that need a bit more strength, etc. I've actually been using the .fff files from "rsilvers", which has been a lifesaver in regards to time needed for testing. I'm still working through feed rates to get a balance between time to print, part quality and machine wear and tear (in my day job as a manufacturing engineer I was often told to "beat the machine, we'll buy another when it breaks"), a philosophy I've never been comfortable applying to any machine I use.
I'm fast approaching the point where I need to start printing with ABS, which from reading posts here and on other forums is an entirely different "beast". Luckily I have a couple of .fff files from "rsilvers" which should keep my "hair pulling" to a manageable level.
All part of the learning process that is 3D Printing.

Mike H.

[Capt. John]

Watch the rsilvers high quality ABS settings for the rim, or outline is set at zero, make this value 2mm and you're good to go.
If this setting is not corrected your first layer gets printed on the outline.