M2 part failure, HELP!

[Steve T]

Murphy's law surrounds me. Four hours into a six hour print the extruder motor mount fails and the entire print from that slice up is shifted 0.015" which is unexceptable since this would be the first print I'm doing for this company. I'm thinking the hole the failure happened around was designed into the part for more flex for the clamp. The material used in the mount is clearly not strong enough to withstand the vigors of a long print with the constant heat rise and must have softened the material enough to elongate around the hole then snapped. This mount should be made from a more durable plastic i.e. PET, polycarbonate, nylon or a host of others etc. Now I'm in a crunch! I don't know if I can manually repair the part so I can print another and I'm under a deadline. Can somone please direct me to a link that handles the M2 printer part files. Thanks so much.
Steve

[sthone]

Yeah that hole is a common weak spot where they always break, I think it's there to allow access to one of the mounting screws either way they should fix this problem. Try superguleing the crap out of it and you should be able to at least print a new one.

Personally I when with this beefed up version found on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:432956 Just keep in mind you might have to file it a bit for the Z-knob to clear it. (I just rounded the corners on my actual knob a bit) and if you use this one be sure to adjust your Z-stop after installing it as the height is different.

Edit - Original parts can be found here - http://makergear.wikidot.com/m2-components

-Steve

[Steve T]

Thanks a bunch Steve, The new style looks like it'll outlive the machine itself. It almost appears that the break is from heat from the extruder motor.
Steve

[Tim]

That's quite a catastrophic failure! Mine cracked, and it was difficult to figure out why the motor kept shifting every now and then, until I took it apart and discovered the crack on the inside.

I don't really recommend superglue for such a broad series of cracks, but 2-part epoxy should hold it together. I kept mine going for months that way until I finally got around to ordering a spool of PET+ which I used to print the replacement. PET+ is definitely a better material for the motor mount. If you search the forum discussions about cracked motor mounts, somewhere there is also a link to a motor mount design which is not so beefed up, but excludes the hole. That one will not have any issues with running into the Z knob.

Fortunately, MakerGear people do listen to these discussions, which may be one reason that the v4 comes with a solid metal motor mount. It would take a sledgehammer to crack my motor mount, now.

[jimc]

steve i know it doesnt help you right now but just a tip.....print most of the plastic parts for the m2 and always have a spare so you dont get stuck. that breaks from tightening those bolts too tight combined with heat and the occasional collide with the print. what doesnt help is its printed in a low infill. i think i printed my new one at 80 or 90%. same way with the filament drive....which i mention since i see your still rockin the stock one.

[sthone]

I was just looking at build pictures that helifrek had posted a link to in another thread and his Extruder Motor Mount is totally different so it looks like MakerGear is on top of things and have all ready addressed the hole/cracking problem.

-Steve

[insta]

That just looks like the model from Thingiverse.

[helifrek]

Was just browsing through your thread and saw my name! I feel special That is the extruder motor mount that came with my kit so it must have been updated.
That is one crazy looking print that you were printing for your customer. I can't imagine what the heck it is for!

[Steve T]

Thanks for that assurance Tim, I printed the new one in PET and it worked out great. Playing with the old part I realized it must have been suffering from heat stroke for some time because the rest of the strap crumbled in my hand. Hoping the PET will last longer.
Jim, yes original extruder mount I use for .35mm and have updated versions for my other hot ends. Good idea by the way to print backup parts and have them ready. Will do!
Helifrek, it's a model for a wire bending company, all I can say, sorry.