job went sideways and 180 degrees
job went sideways and 180 degrees
Hi
As you can see from the pictures something went horribly wrong. The bottom moved right around, like 180 degrees and the other layers...well they shifted all over the place.
I am new to 3D printing and I have printed a handful of things before without issues and I changed a couple of settings from what I have read on here. I should also add my engineer hasn't designed parts for 3D printing before and he is sending me these practice or calibration parts to test with to check the shrinkage value and whatnot.
I'm printing in PLA, I changed layer 1 to 60 degrees and layer 2 to 70 and I had the extruder at 220
I have read and made some changes in accordance with this help guide from S3D https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... leshooting
It's printing again now after the changes which include the blue tape to the bed and leveling it out and taking my time this time to get it right. I changed the layer hright from 0.30mm to 0.28mm. Layer 1 is back to 70 and sticking with 220 on the extruder.
As you can see from the pictures something went horribly wrong. The bottom moved right around, like 180 degrees and the other layers...well they shifted all over the place.
I am new to 3D printing and I have printed a handful of things before without issues and I changed a couple of settings from what I have read on here. I should also add my engineer hasn't designed parts for 3D printing before and he is sending me these practice or calibration parts to test with to check the shrinkage value and whatnot.
I'm printing in PLA, I changed layer 1 to 60 degrees and layer 2 to 70 and I had the extruder at 220
I have read and made some changes in accordance with this help guide from S3D https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... leshooting
It's printing again now after the changes which include the blue tape to the bed and leveling it out and taking my time this time to get it right. I changed the layer hright from 0.30mm to 0.28mm. Layer 1 is back to 70 and sticking with 220 on the extruder.
Re: job went sideways and 180 degrees
looks like it released from the bed mid print
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- Posts: 277
- Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:37 am
Re: job went sideways and 180 degrees
220 is more on the highend for PLA.
205 has been working well for me, with 55 degree bed, on glass with hairspray. Works very well.
Print a calibration block, from that get your Z-Offset, and your extrusion multiplier.
PLA has very little shrinkage, essentially none.
The M2 does great at .2mm layer heights.
205 has been working well for me, with 55 degree bed, on glass with hairspray. Works very well.
Print a calibration block, from that get your Z-Offset, and your extrusion multiplier.
PLA has very little shrinkage, essentially none.
The M2 does great at .2mm layer heights.
M2 - V4, MIC-6 Build Plate, Astrosyn Damper's(X/Y), Rev. E, Geeetech LCD
S3D - FFF Settings https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2367
Print Quality Troubleshooting https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... eshooting/
S3D - FFF Settings https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2367
Print Quality Troubleshooting https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... eshooting/
Re: job went sideways and 180 degrees
Hey, I am not sure what you mean by this
The pictures show that the model printed ok however there is a layer on top of the holes which isn't supposed to be there.
I have attached the model and you will see that the layer on top of the holes isn't there but when you preview the print it is there. I am not sure what's going on with that.
I will try your recommendations for sure and see how that turns out.Print a calibration block, from that get your Z-Offset, and your extrusion multiplier
The pictures show that the model printed ok however there is a layer on top of the holes which isn't supposed to be there.
I have attached the model and you will see that the layer on top of the holes isn't there but when you preview the print it is there. I am not sure what's going on with that.
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- calibrationtriad.stl
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- Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:37 am
Re: job went sideways and 180 degrees
I downloaded it, and when I do the preview I can see that on the one side, the holes are filled in, so it would print just like the one you have printed out.
I can't answer why that happens, it has to be the model. Someone who knows models better would know the answer.
I can't answer why that happens, it has to be the model. Someone who knows models better would know the answer.
M2 - V4, MIC-6 Build Plate, Astrosyn Damper's(X/Y), Rev. E, Geeetech LCD
S3D - FFF Settings https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2367
Print Quality Troubleshooting https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... eshooting/
S3D - FFF Settings https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2367
Print Quality Troubleshooting https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin ... eshooting/
- willnewton
- Posts: 479
- Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:32 pm
Re: job went sideways and 180 degrees
Welcome to the Simplify 3D bug. The new version creates bridges over holes for some reason. I have had success passing the model through Netfabb online STL processing available free from Microsoft. No matter how well they are built, I get the same bridging errors. Old models that ran fine have issues when processed with S3d version 3.
Your second print looks pretty good. For my settings, I print my first layer at 215 and others layers at 210 on to a blue taped bed at 50°. 90% of my prints are at .20mm layer height, others are at .25 for a faster print. I have run a few prints at .10-.15, but unless the detail level is very high and the print relatively small, you get diminishing returns for the time required.
It could be that your .30mm print height caused the first print to fail. The nozzle is .32 so you don't get the "squish" you need for good layer adhesion. If your machine is under-extruding, due to settings or a clog, it will definitely cause delamination. As you get more used to tweaking the settings, such as the extrusion multiplier, you can compensate a bit by over-extruding to get the layers to stick together.
If you really want to use taller layer heights, you could try a .50 nozzle.
Your second print looks pretty good. For my settings, I print my first layer at 215 and others layers at 210 on to a blue taped bed at 50°. 90% of my prints are at .20mm layer height, others are at .25 for a faster print. I have run a few prints at .10-.15, but unless the detail level is very high and the print relatively small, you get diminishing returns for the time required.
It could be that your .30mm print height caused the first print to fail. The nozzle is .32 so you don't get the "squish" you need for good layer adhesion. If your machine is under-extruding, due to settings or a clog, it will definitely cause delamination. As you get more used to tweaking the settings, such as the extrusion multiplier, you can compensate a bit by over-extruding to get the layers to stick together.
If you really want to use taller layer heights, you could try a .50 nozzle.
I'm finally back to where I started two days ago!
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites
- willnewton
- Posts: 479
- Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:32 pm
Re: job went sideways and 180 degrees
By print a calibration block and get the z-height and extrusion multiplier, the reference is about basic calibration.
Design a 20mm cube for printing and print it out. When you are done, check to see if you have a 20mm cube.
You may need to adjust your z-height, which in this case is referring to bed to nozzle distance on layer one. You are looking for a proper fill, adhesion, and print width. Ex. 100% fill should have lines just touching each other without gaps or more than a very slight overlap. Print width of a single line should somewhat match your S3d settings , maybe .40ishmm wide. Z-height can also affect your overall height and bottom layer perimeters.
Your extrusion multiplier can help find the proper line print width and also correct some issues, such as bulging corners or helping to compensate for a slight clog when you just want get a print done and clean it out later.
3D printing is a dance of many settings playing off each other. The important thing to remember is that filament printing is not the same as metal machining. You will get some fluctuations in tolerances, etc. so don't spend hours chasing down .005 precision. You should expect a reasonable tolerance of around .10ishmm at best on your cube across the flats.
Most of your time diagnosing issues will be spent getting the first layer dialed in. It really sets the scene for the rest of the print. A bad first layer practically guarantees a print fail. A good first layer means you can walk away and go do other work. Sure, you will have other issues occur, but layer one is where problems are most evident and can be nipped in the bud.
Once you have experience you will be able to just watch the skirt of a print run and be able to diagnose many issues visually. Don't worry the tweaking and tuning gets more natural and easier to get your head around as you progress. Once you get the machine performing well in general, you will only have to take a few extra seconds to fiddle with things to optimize them for a specific print or filament.
Design a 20mm cube for printing and print it out. When you are done, check to see if you have a 20mm cube.
You may need to adjust your z-height, which in this case is referring to bed to nozzle distance on layer one. You are looking for a proper fill, adhesion, and print width. Ex. 100% fill should have lines just touching each other without gaps or more than a very slight overlap. Print width of a single line should somewhat match your S3d settings , maybe .40ishmm wide. Z-height can also affect your overall height and bottom layer perimeters.
Your extrusion multiplier can help find the proper line print width and also correct some issues, such as bulging corners or helping to compensate for a slight clog when you just want get a print done and clean it out later.
3D printing is a dance of many settings playing off each other. The important thing to remember is that filament printing is not the same as metal machining. You will get some fluctuations in tolerances, etc. so don't spend hours chasing down .005 precision. You should expect a reasonable tolerance of around .10ishmm at best on your cube across the flats.
Most of your time diagnosing issues will be spent getting the first layer dialed in. It really sets the scene for the rest of the print. A bad first layer practically guarantees a print fail. A good first layer means you can walk away and go do other work. Sure, you will have other issues occur, but layer one is where problems are most evident and can be nipped in the bud.
Once you have experience you will be able to just watch the skirt of a print run and be able to diagnose many issues visually. Don't worry the tweaking and tuning gets more natural and easier to get your head around as you progress. Once you get the machine performing well in general, you will only have to take a few extra seconds to fiddle with things to optimize them for a specific print or filament.
I'm finally back to where I started two days ago!
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites
Re: job went sideways and 180 degrees
Grrrr, yeah, it nails me every time i try to slice something where the edges of the hole have been filleted.willnewton wrote:Welcome to the Simplify 3D bug. The new version creates bridges over holes for some reason.
- willnewton
- Posts: 479
- Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:32 pm
Re: job went sideways and 180 degrees
This is a thread on the S3D forum with another person having bridging issues. He able to rotate the model to "fix" the bridging, but it is not oriented correctly for printing. I was able to change the layer height on my print from .20mm to .25mm and it "fixed" the problem as well.
Although, it's not really fixed.
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3852
Although, it's not really fixed.
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3852
I'm finally back to where I started two days ago!
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites
Re: job went sideways and 180 degrees
I think this is a long standing bug, actually. Jump to the Nits and Bugs section of my old writeup: http://jinschoi.github.io/simplify3d-docs/
Simplest fix is to tweak your first layer height, try 99% or 101%.
Simplest fix is to tweak your first layer height, try 99% or 101%.