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HATCHBOX PETG - Nozzle Temp 265+
Posted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 12:02 am
by shawnrw
I have to have the nozzel temp over 265+ to get the PETG to extrude properly. Is this a problem, must guides on here recommend 245 -255. I have the bed fan turned off.
Thanks,
Shawn
Re: HATCHBOX PETG - Nozzle Temp 265+
Posted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 3:33 am
by insta
We need more details.
What size nozzle, what print speed, what layer height, V3b/V4/E3D nozzle?
Re: HATCHBOX PETG - Nozzle Temp 265+
Posted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 3:40 pm
by willnewton
Seems a bit high. Perhaps a slight clog during the filament changeover? Did you use a cleaner filament between the PETG and your previous filament? Leftover PLA gunk at 250C will definitely give you some issues.
Is it under extruding or is the feed gear chewing up your filament?
My v4 works great at 250C for eSun PETG, can't imagine running it much higher.
Re: HATCHBOX PETG - Nozzle Temp 265+
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:26 am
by shawnrw
Thanks for the reply's...
I cleaned out the nozzle with cleaner filament using the atomic method, saw a little better performance... The nozzle is still stopping mid print after about an hour or so. I have temps hovering around 252 first layer and 250 second layer. I'm using Hatchbox Petg and checked the feed tension, looks perfect.
I'm currently using Hatbox Petg - Orange. Thoughts?
I have ordered some eSun Petg to see if it's the filament.
Thanks,
Shawn
Re: HATCHBOX PETG - Nozzle Temp 265+
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 3:16 pm
by ednisley
shawnrw wrote:The nozzle is still stopping mid print after about an hour or so.
I recently experienced the first feed jam in memory, which turned out to be caused by (trying to) pull an ever-so-slightly too large section of filament through an ever-so-slightly too small filament drive hole. The spool started at 1.70 mm and measured 1.80 mm just above the drive gear's claw marks; both diameters fall (barely) within the ±0.05 mm tolerance around 1.75 mm.
Reaming the hole in the drive body with a #45 drill (2.08 mm, more or less) removed a remarkable amount of fuzz & crud, produced a straight path, and solved the problem.
The filament wiper at the far end of the guide tube doesn't get all that dirty, which means the fuzz probably blew in with cooling air from the fan. I think the plastic filament drive body may deform slightly under the constant pressure of all those screws; the fuzz & crud may not matter at all.
Worth trying, anyhow.