Four Critical Faults that need Fixing ASAP

[w22]

1. My MakerGear 2e slams its extruder head into the front left pin that holds the bed down every single time and it sounds hideous and I just perfected the alignments for the extruder as well to the very 0.01mm.

2. See picture for why with perfect settings, my printer is almost missing layers from the shelf I was printing almost like the layers are too tiny in diameter.

3. The extruder cable continues to get yanked and torn by the beds upper right pin that holds the glass down and is getting close to tearing the internal wires, thoughts? (AKA is there a cap I can print so the power cable can just glide over that corner?).

4. I seem to get astonishingly better prints with the MakerGear original factory software than Simplify 3D in any settings config. Thoughts?

[willnewton]

1. It shouldn't be doing that. Your starting G-code script may have an error putting your print head in the wrong place.

2. You don't have perfect settings or else your print would not look like that! Your print looks like a single wall, increase your wall thickness or turn off "vase mode" in S3d. You have very poor layer adhesion, you are probably printing at too low a temperature. I don't know what your model looks like, but you may have some "designing for printing" issues there as well

3. This seems to be an issue with the new cable box on the extruder head. It sits too low and the back corner of the bed can catch the cable on large prints. I haven't seen many complaints about it, but it is an issue I share. I have a shelf above my printer and have a string holding my cable off the bed. It needs addressing by MG or a DIY modification.

4. Yes, you need to keep working on your S3d settings. Some detail is being handled differently from one piece of software than the other. It may be as simple as changing the print speed, but there could be 20+settings that need to be adjusted. Load this as a starter setting. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:806946

I would suggest working out your issues on 20mm cube first, then moving on to a larger print.

[rpollack]

@w22 - please contact MakerGear support directly.

Also, if you are going to post a support question please post it in the Tech Support section, not the General Discussion area.

Thank you,
Rick

[Jules]

1. My MakerGear 2e slams its extruder head into the front left pin that holds the bed down every single time and it sounds hideous and I just perfected the alignments for the extruder as well to the very 0.01mm.

The clips must be oriented parallel to the long edges of the plate, or that can happen. (It's usually not the nozzle, but one of the screws on the underside of the X-axis frame.)

Parallel to the long edges of the plate.

2. See picture for why with perfect settings, my printer is almost missing layers from the shelf I was printing almost like the layers are too tiny in diameter.

Will is correct - for a single thickness wall with PLA, which warps out the wazoo, you can pretty much expect that exact result. (Files have to be designed for 3D printing - correct structure and all that sort of thing.)

3. The extruder cable continues to get yanked and torn by the beds upper right pin that holds the glass down and is getting close to tearing the internal wires, thoughts? (AKA is there a cap I can print so the power cable can just glide over that corner?).

You didn't see this where I replied on your other thread.....all you need is a zip-tie:

Zip tie it up out of the way. (Mine's a dual, so two cables.)

4. I seem to get astonishingly better prints with the MakerGear original factory software than Simplify 3D in any settings config. Thoughts?

That's the learning part. (You can't use the RSilvers settings directly with your machine though - so be a bit careful.)

[sthone]

1. My MakerGear 2e slams its extruder head into the front left pin that holds the bed down every single time and it sounds hideous and I just perfected the alignments for the extruder as well to the very 0.01mm.

The clips must be oriented parallel to the long edges of the plate, or that can happen. (It's usually not the nozzle, but one of the screws on the underside of the X-axis frame.)

If it's the actual nozzle hitting the front left clip he might have the wrong firmware. I ran into this during testing when I switched back to the old firmware. With the new firmware it moves the nozzle toward the back as the bed raises so it clears the clip.

w22 - is it hitting during the home process or when the bed moves forward after the nozzle is priming off the right side of the bed?

[willnewton]

Wow, there are integrated clips now? Yet another unannounced improvement!

[Jules]

Wow, there are integrated clips now? Yet another unannounced improvement!

yesssss....no more binder clips! Evaaaahhhhhh!

[jsc]

Jules, how come you happen to have all the undocumented goodies?

[Jules]

Jules, how come you happen to have all the undocumented goodies?

Ahhhh, well, therein lies a tale....

I sometimes get to document them.

[insta]

That's a lot of words to say "because I document them".