wisdomknight wrote:Extruding with the new nozzle, but Im back to where I started same quality with the old nozzle but now Im out $150 from buying parts I didnt need.
Not too happy with my $2,000 printer.
Better to have it and not need it, than need it desperately
and not have it.
I keep 7 spare hotends, a half dozen nozzles, a bunch of boros with PEI, and a couple zebras. (One of these days, I probably need to sell a few of those, I probably don't need that many. Just no time to mess with packaging it up and shipping it.)
It usually takes a few days of printing to break in a new nozzle. In addition, you might not have the Starting Height set exactly right, and adjusting that can make a BIG difference in how the machine extrudes. Give it a few days and if you are still getting wavy lines, reduce the gap by 0.02 mm
at a time until it quits.
Z-Adjust Application viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3666
If you're not doing it, you need to dial in your settings for each spool of filament. You can't assume that Hatchbox PLA prints like MakerGear PLA or eSun Wood filament. They all require fine tuning of the settings in order to get good consistent prints. (All the settings: extrusion speed, retraction, temperature, fan, etc.)
The default settings tend to run high for some of these filaments.
Make sure you use eSun cleaning filament if you switch to any different kind of filament, and run a dust filter. All the guys gave excellent advice earlier - it keeps us from having to go through this hassle.
(If you don't, I promise you'll be doing this again.)
But you CAN fine tune those results with some experimentation.