Installed a new 30mm nozzle and its a mess!

[Jules]

Yes, it is possible to get that off of there, but there are going to be changes in how your prints adhere to the plate. (Everything that you do has an impact on the print - the tolerances are extremely delicate with these machines.)

Post some pictures of your calibration squares, with close-ups of the first layer.

[wisdomknight]

Okay good. Don't know what happened with the Z-Adjust app, but there might have been a change to the firmware that I don't know about.

Print a couple of calibration squares to see what they look like, shoot some pictures, close-ups, that let us see the first layer while it is still attached to the plate (don't pry it off) and then we'll see if anything else needs to be done.

Ok sorry for my ignorance as usual but where can I find the calibration squares?

And BTW I tried the Z-Adjust app and after I "CONNECT" I click "PREPARE" and it moves the bed up to the nozzle with about 4mm gap between them.
What do I do at this point?

[wisdomknight]

BTW I printed these over the weekend and I had complete success with the 2nd and then as you can see in the 1st one the lines/banding is back.
I printed both in the center of the bed at 100 microns and both at 190F and 60F for the bed.
I dont believe I changed any settings if I did it was the Infill maybe from 15% to 30%...but thats it for sure.

[Jules]

....Print a couple of calibration squares to see what they look like, shoot some pictures, close-ups, that let us see the first layer while it is still attached to the plate (don't pry it off) and then we'll see if anything else needs to be done.

Ok sorry for my ignorance as usual but where can I find the calibration squares?

calibration.zip

Calibration Squares

(1.98 KiB) Downloaded 339 times

And BTW I tried the Z-Adjust app and after I "CONNECT" I click "PREPARE" and it moves the bed up to the nozzle with about 4mm gap between them.
What do I do at this point?

Now i understand why you thought you had a 4 mm gap before after using it the first time - if you didn't do anything after it moved into the starter position, it probably set the starter position as the initial Starting Height in your firmware.

Quick explanation:

The Z-Adjust application works just exactly like the QuickStart Application to let you set your gap using the little blue plastic feeler gauge, but it does not make you run through all of the Leveling processes after setting the Starting Height. So you are supposed to use the jog controls in the application to move the plate up until it just barely sandwiches the blue plastic feeler gauge between the nozzle and the bed. THEN you save that value and it enters your new Starting Height into the firmware for the machine.

Bottom line: If you used the QuickStart Application correctly, you do not have to use the Z-Adjust Application. The Z-Adjust Application is just easier to use.

[wisdomknight]

I understand now Jules.
Weird though I did that with the Z-Adjust app and moved the bed with the jog controls.
But when I exited the app and went to print a test, the nozzle was trying to print from 4mm away!
And yes I saved startin height.

Anyway I will try it again.

[wisdomknight]

Ok here's the square on the bed with only a single layer printed:

Same but different angle:

And here's a entire square printed and removed from bed:

[Jules]

BTW I printed these over the weekend and I had complete success with the 2nd and then as you can see in the 1st one the lines/banding is back.
I printed both in the center of the bed at 100 microns and both at 190F and 60F for the bed.
I dont believe I changed any settings if I did it was the Infill maybe from 15% to 30%...but thats it for sure.

20160829_095653.jpg

I have decided that I am four hundred kinds of an idiot......are you trying to print all of this stuff at 100 microns layer height?

Change your layer height to 0.2 mm if you have a 0.35 mm nozzle, and your extrusion width to 0.4 mm. The banding will go away. Do not go below 0.18 mm layer height with a 0.35 mm nozzle.

There is a relationship between nozzle hole size, extrusion width, and the minimum layer height with 3D printers that is discussed briefly in the Beginner's Guide.

Set your Extrusion Width to be wider than your nozzle hole size, but less than the OD of the flat face on that nozzle. (This gives the machine correct control over placement of the thread.)

For a 0.35 mm nozzle: Correct range is from 0.35 mm to 0.50 mm

Set your Layer Height according to the following formula :
Extrusion Width/Layer Height is greater than or equal to 1.8

Example: With a layer height of 0.20 mm the formula reads 0.40/0.20 = 2.0 which is greater than 1.8.
You could also use 0.50/0.25 = 2.0, or 0.36/0.20 = 1.8.

The reason for this is to give a slightly squashed layer to give better adhesion, and layer bonding. Any ratio that comes out below 1.8 is going to start causing adhesion and bonding problems.

(And if math isn't your thing - just set your layer height to be half of your extrusion width.)

[wisdomknight]

Really, then why did I get good prints at 100 microns before?

And what nozzle do I need to print at that resolution effectively?

[ednisley]

Really, then why did I get good prints at 100 microns before?

Generally, that happens when all my mistakes cancel out, but it's never a long-lasting thing... [grin]

[wisdomknight]

Really, then why did I get good prints at 100 microns before?

Generally, that happens when all my mistakes cancel out, but it's never a long-lasting thing... [grin]

yeah that is how life is sometimes huh