Installed a new 30mm nozzle and its a mess!

[Jules]

I learned alot from you guys, fantastic community here!

The only other thing that tech support told me differently than here in the forums that it could be my G-Code.
Now thats something that I really dont even want to get into
Im just an artist and all this tech stuff is frying my brain!

You've done the hard part - the G-Code that they are referring to, is just adjusting the gap using that little program I linked to, by 0.02 mm.

You'll see it written at that link, it's 3 lines of typing. I think you can handle it.

[ednisley]

I keep 7 spare hotends, a half dozen nozzles, a bunch of boros with PEI, and a couple zebras.

As a counterpoint, lest you think that's the required spare parts inventory you must have ready for immediate use...

I've been running an M2 since April 2013 and, since then, I've installed:

• a customized platform in late 2013
• a better Z-axis motor in mid 2013
• a V4 hot end in March 2015
• a fine-tooth drive gear in April 2016

... and have zero spare parts on the shelf. Granted, I have tinkered up a few custom mods, because I'm that type of guy, but the hardware remains pretty much old-school M2.

Unlike some folks I could name but won't, I print a few parts a week for my other projects / repairs around here. I'm not running a production shop.

I started with PLA, switched to PETG in early 2015, use a single spool until it's empty, and remain completely insensitive to the filament color. That's certainly atypical, although folks who hand-finish fancy art projects with a 3D printed armature may have similar needs.

Under those conditions, the M2, its firmware, and the entire software stack, become invisible after the initial setup. I design a part, slice it, send the G-Code to the printer, and eventually pick the part off the platform(*) without any drama.

Now, if you're doin' this and tryin' that and tryin' to make some weird plastics, do what the Nice Lady says and stock up on spares, because you'll need them. The more you tinker with your factory, the more you must learn about its technical processes: you must become a maintenance technician.

But when you want a machine that does a magic trick every single time, the M2 Just Works.

(*) Hairspray on glass with PETG causes the part to stick ferociously while hot and release completely when cool. YMMV.

[wisdomknight]

Thanks Ednisley I understand where your coming from.

And yes Jules I will definitely try the G-Code you suggested.

[Jules]

As a counterpoint, lest you think of that's the required spare parts inventory you must have ready for immediate use...

Oh yes, Ed's totally right, you don't need seven of the things! (I've been through the V3B to V4 hotend switch, followed by a couple of dual conversions, and you have the old ones that you take off when you rig them out for the duals, so I've got a bunch of spares.)

Just get one spare that you can use to keep on printing while you clean out the old one, particularly if you're in a position where you have to get something out on a deadline.

[wisdomknight]

Extruding with the new nozzle, but Im back to where I started same quality with the old nozzle but now Im out $150 from buying parts I didnt need.
Not too happy with my $2,000 printer.

Better to have it and not need it, than need it desperately and not have it.

I keep 7 spare hotends, a half dozen nozzles, a bunch of boros with PEI, and a couple zebras. (One of these days, I probably need to sell a few of those, I probably don't need that many. Just no time to mess with packaging it up and shipping it.)

It usually takes a few days of printing to break in a new nozzle. In addition, you might not have the Starting Height set exactly right, and adjusting that can make a BIG difference in how the machine extrudes. Give it a few days and if you are still getting wavy lines, reduce the gap by 0.02 mm at a time until it quits.

Z-Adjust Application viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3666

If you're not doing it, you need to dial in your settings for each spool of filament. You can't assume that Hatchbox PLA prints like MakerGear PLA or eSun Wood filament. They all require fine tuning of the settings in order to get good consistent prints. (All the settings: extrusion speed, retraction, temperature, fan, etc.) The default settings tend to run high for some of these filaments.

Make sure you use eSun cleaning filament if you switch to any different kind of filament, and run a dust filter. All the guys gave excellent advice earlier - it keeps us from having to go through this hassle.
(If you don't, I promise you'll be doing this again.)

But you CAN fine tune those results with some experimentation.

I tried that app but it way worse now, my z-height is off the bed by 4mm!!!!
and my extrusion lines on the bed are all squiggly.
wow, this is something else. I thought I had this printer figured out months ago

[Jules]

Four millimeters? Nope that's not right.

1. Download the Z-Adjust Application and install it on your computer
2. Get your little blue plastic gauge
3. Run the Z-Adjust Application using the little plastic gauge, save the value and then close the app.

And don't mess with the G-Code yet.

4. Try a print of the calibration square (or something small like that) and see if it prints without starting 4 mm above the bed.

If it still starts 4 mm above the bed, come back here and tell us about it, and then you are going to need to do some screen captures and post them here so we can look at them.

You do have the Rev E version of the machine, correct?

[wisdomknight]

Four millimeters? Nope that's not right.

1. Download the Z-Adjust Application and install it on your computer
2. Get your little blue plastic gauge
3. Run the Z-Adjust Application using the little plastic gauge, save the value and then close the app.

And don't mess with the G-Code yet.

4. Try a print of the calibration square (or something small like that) and see if it prints without starting 4 mm above the bed.

If it still starts 4 mm above the bed, come back here and tell us about it, and then you are going to need to do some screen captures and post them here so we can look at them.

You do have the Rev E version of the machine, correct?

I didnt mess with G-Code I did use the app and now its 4mm off the bed.
So Im trying to undo this by using the makergear bed leveling app right now

[wisdomknight]

ok the M2 quickstart app fixed the issue...well the 4mm issue anyhow

[Jules]

Okay good. Don't know what happened with the Z-Adjust app, but there might have been a change to the firmware that I don't know about.

Print a couple of calibration squares to see what they look like, shoot some pictures, close-ups, that let us see the first layer while it is still attached to the plate (don't pry it off) and then we'll see if anything else needs to be done.

[wisdomknight]

Okay good. Don't know what happened with the Z-Adjust app, but there might have been a change to the firmware that I don't know about.

Print a couple of calibration squares to see what they look like, shoot some pictures, close-ups, that let us see the first layer while it is still attached to the plate (don't pry it off) and then we'll see if anything else needs to be done.

ok...btw off topic but can I get rid of that little lip that is at the first layer of everything I print.
I just 10th of a mm but was wondering if thats possible?