layer shift
-
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2016 1:01 am
layer shift
I'm having a consistent problem with shifting in my bigger print files. It happens at different layers and I've tried troubleshooting as much as possible. the last failure happened print from SD card with USB disconnected, print speed 75mm/s and travel 280mm/s. I think I've got a problem with firmware acceleration being too high but I'm not sure if that's a cause for this or not? really appreciate your input, it is shifting in both the X & Y axis what appears to be equal distance.
thank you,
Shawn
Re: layer shift
It's kind of hard to tell what might be causing the problem from your photo....
1. What filament are you printing?
2. What layer height?
3. What temperature?
4. Is it warping anywhere lower on the print or pulling away from the plate anywhere?
1. What filament are you printing?
2. What layer height?
3. What temperature?
4. Is it warping anywhere lower on the print or pulling away from the plate anywhere?
-
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2016 1:01 am
Re: layer shift
Hi Jules thanks for your response. I know it's like finding a needle in a haystack. I just adjusted my acceleration thinking maybe the glass was sliding under extreme movements even with 4 binder clips on it. added my setting below
Yes the tail pulls up very slightly but no warping otherwise.Jules wrote:It's kind of hard to tell what might be causing the problem from your photo....
1. What filament are you printing? I am printing Hatchbox PLA
2. What layer height? .25 Layer height
3. What temperature? 220C for the first 2mm then 215C
4. Is it warping anywhere lower on the print or pulling away from the plate anywhere?
Re: layer shift
That's the 3D printable plane right? You cannot print that with ABS or HIPS, it must be PLA or PETG. There's no exceptions to this.
edit: you said hatchbox PLA.
Up your extrusion multiplier slightly, slow the print down.
edit: you said hatchbox PLA.
Up your extrusion multiplier slightly, slow the print down.
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org
-
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2016 1:01 am
Re: layer shift
I'm convinced it has something to do with hardware or firmware of the machine. I made adjustments to the print settings and got one of the best prints yet, but another part failed again last night. This is really frustrating and getting expensive wasting so much filament. I submitted a support ticket hoping Makergear can provide some help. Maybe my firmware needs updating? Does it matter when I unplug the USB?
Re: layer shift
If the tail, (or any part), of a print comes loose from the plate and starts to warp up, the nozzle can hit the print and cause the shifting that you are seeing. It's a very common cause of layer shifting higher up in the print.
The solution is to make sure the print stays stuck to the plate everywhere during the entire print. Use glue or hairspray to make sure it stays locked down. Having the nozzle hit the print during a long run can cause a bird's nest, which is a huge mess to clean up.
If you start to notice any separation from the plate, even early in the print, go ahead and kill the print and start over with more adhesive. It will be wrecked if anything interferes with that first layer anyway, and you can save yourself some filament.
The solution is to make sure the print stays stuck to the plate everywhere during the entire print. Use glue or hairspray to make sure it stays locked down. Having the nozzle hit the print during a long run can cause a bird's nest, which is a huge mess to clean up.
If you start to notice any separation from the plate, even early in the print, go ahead and kill the print and start over with more adhesive. It will be wrecked if anything interferes with that first layer anyway, and you can save yourself some filament.
Re: layer shift
also, if your using s3d. default xy movement speed is 18000. change that to 12000. not sure what era machine you have but the marlin firmware from maybe a year ago and prior had some type of movement bug that would cause the skips if that movement speed was too high. no need to have it set that high anyway.
-
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2016 1:01 am
Re: layer shift
Thanks Jules,
I will focus on bed adhesion and see if that solves my problems. Might be the excuse I've been looking for to purchase the Mic6+PEI from Insta. I've read some really good reviews. I'm also doing some research on the RepRap wiki, there's so many possible causes it's got me feeling like I'm on webmd self diagnosing rare type of brain disorder
Honestly I'm a little surprised that PLA is pulling off the bed like this, I've never had that problem with PLA before.
Thanks to everyone for your support.
Shawn.
I will focus on bed adhesion and see if that solves my problems. Might be the excuse I've been looking for to purchase the Mic6+PEI from Insta. I've read some really good reviews. I'm also doing some research on the RepRap wiki, there's so many possible causes it's got me feeling like I'm on webmd self diagnosing rare type of brain disorder
Honestly I'm a little surprised that PLA is pulling off the bed like this, I've never had that problem with PLA before.
Thanks to everyone for your support.
Shawn.
-
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2016 1:01 am
Re: layer shift
Hi Jim,jimc wrote:also, if your using s3d. default xy movement speed is 18000. change that to 12000. not sure what era machine you have but the marlin firmware from maybe a year ago and prior had some type of movement bug that would cause the skips if that movement speed was too high. no need to have it set that high anyway.
That's the kind of thing I've been searching for. So essentially I need to slow down from 300mm/s to 200mm/s that's disappointing. I've seen that some people have worked on firmware upgrades and posted them here, do you have experience with these? Would you recommend I try to update/upgrade firmware?
Thanks!
Re: layer shift
this was fixed quite some time ago. a year maybe. i think jsc and josh figured it out a while back. i remember it also having something to do with the arduino version or something. with that said, you dont need to run your s3d movement speed that high anyway. 12000 is more than enough and you wont notice any difference in the length of the actual print time. that is only non printing moves. when i got my m2 back in 13 i was seeing alot of shifts. i dropped that # and it never did it again.