I've managed to cause the extruder motor to not turn

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Hi guys. When asked to extruder, the motor doesn't. It doesn't vibrate, buzz, or show any signs of an electrical current reaching the motor.
Attempted to install a BLTouch. Had to mess with the electronics box, and found that those wires are extremely well connected. I've since made sure no connection socket is loose (outside of testing with a multimeter).

Also, I did install the OriginalZMotor firmware, since my machine is a Rev. D with the older silver/black motor. Edit 3: The printer was also upgraded to the V4 extruder from the v3b. The firmware by default had the comments to change the steps on the Z motor to 400 and set "True" to the invert section (instructions listed at top of Marlin.ino) I had issues with my minstop on the sensor, so Iv'e reverted everything back, wiring wise. Z minstop works properly again, but my motor doesn't seem to want to play. I also do not have the fans on or connected (will test after this post and a shower) as to see if the gear is turning. Edit 4: Showered and reconnected. Oddly enough, the extruder fan does not turn on with the machine. So both the extruder motor and extruder fan aren't doing as needed, is it more likely firmware?

What I think is probably the culprit is probably a connection. If the motor's doing nothing, that to me means that electron isn't getting to where it needs to go.
But I'm not too versed on firmware, which could prevent this and heck it might be as simple as an incorrectly labeled pin?
I'm looking for places to start checking once I get past physical connections (if it's the issue -- these connections are rock solid so I'm doubting it).
Any help is appreciated.

Edit: I did forget to mention that the temperature is set properly and am not getting a "cold extrusion prevented" error.
Edit 2: See that I'm no longer on probation. Thanks! I'll try to minimize bad posts.

[Jules]

Everyone's first few posts are moderated...it cuts down on SPAM.

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Everyone's first few posts are moderated...it cuts down on SPAM.

I had imagined. Though my first post, even moderated, wasn't quite stellar

I've relooked at the wiring since discovering BOTH extruder and extruder fan do not work. I haven't changed the stock wiring to my knowlege but I found some interesting things. Attached is a picture of what I'm about to explain.


Checked the wiring on the board. The middle bit of the mosfets, the Extruder Heat 1, has nothing plugged into it.
But, in the corner, the motor is connected to Extruder 1, which is weird to me. Should I connect it into Extruder 0? To that extent, would that address the extruder fan issue?

I'm almost willing to bet this modified firmware has a few settings changed.

Edit: Probably should have read this below the firmware page. I'll read through this and see if it holds the answers I seek.
If nothing else, I'm learning quite a lot about this machine!

Code: Select all

Custom configuration options in Configuration.h

In the motherboard definition list, RAMBo is called Ardurap, and has motherboard code "301".

Below are the added options for setting stepper motor current in software. Currently, it is necessary to modify Configuration.h and upload the firmware to RAMBo, to change these values. However, the values already in the firmware will work fine for most situations.

Your stepper motors WILL get hot during normal operation, but the fact that they are all bolted to a large heatsink keeps them safe. If, however, you feel that any of them are getting too hot for your preference, change the value in Configuration.h and reupload.

// Motor Current setting (Only functional when motor current pins are connected to digipot)
// Values 0-255
// RAMBO 135 = ~0.75A, 185 = ~1A
#define DIGIPOT_MOTOR_CURRENT
#define X_CURRENT 135
#define Y_CURRENT 135
#define Z_CURRENT 135
#define E0_CURRENT 165 //For MakerGear M2, 165 is a good starting point (~1A)
#define E1_CURRENT 125
Stock Configuration.h values

Below are the standard values for the mechanical settings for M2. By changing these (either in the firmware and reuploading, or via Gcode), you can tweak the way M2 moves, to optimize it for your specific printing environment. For instance, if you have M2 on a table that is less than stable, you can drop the DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION values for X and Y, and the DEFAULT_ACCELERATION in general, so that all moves will accelerate and decelerate more gently.

If you would like the axes to home faster, change the HOMING_FEEDRATE for that axis - they are in mm/min, entered as a value A*60, where A is the desired speed in mm/sec, and *60 corrects that to mm/min for the firmware. X and Y are stock at 50mm/sec, and Z is at 4mm/sec. Taking those up to 70mm/sec and 10mm/sec will get all axes to 0, no matter where they are, in 3 seconds for X, 4 seconds for Y, and 20 seconds for Z. They will also make much scarier noises if the endstop does not engage, so please only change these values once you have all endstops installed correctly, and they are tested good.

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0}  // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings 

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {88.88/2,88.88/2,400/2,471.5/2}  // default steps per unit
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {500, 500, 250, 200000}    // (mm/sec)    
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {9000,9000,30,10000}    // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          3000    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves 
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  3000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts

// 
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                20.0    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4     // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0    // (mm/sec)
Configuration_adv.h

There is only one setting in Configuration_adv.h that is likely to be of interest, and that is:

#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 60

This setting changes the length of time in seconds that the stepper motors will remain on, when no move command has been sent to the printer. If your printing process has the Z axis home, then heats up the extruder or bed, the Z motor may deactivate, letting the platform drop. If you wish to change this behavior, modify the setting above in Configuration_adv.h - 300 seconds would be 5 minutes, 600 10 minutes, etc. Should be kept as short as is convenient to you.

Aha! I think I found it!

The bit of code here on the page:

Code: Select all

// Motor Current setting (Only functional when motor current pins are connected to digipot)
// Values 0-255
// RAMBO 135 = ~0.75A, 185 = ~1A
#define DIGIPOT_MOTOR_CURRENT
#define X_CURRENT 135
#define Y_CURRENT 135
#define Z_CURRENT 135
#define E0_CURRENT 165 //For MakerGear M2, 165 is a good starting point (~1A)
#define E1_CURRENT 125
Stock Configuration.h values

does not match what I see in the firmware.

What I see in the firmware is this:

Code: Select all

// Motor Current setting (Only functional when motor driver current ref pins are connected to a digital trimpot on supported boards)
#define DIGIPOT_MOTOR_CURRENT {135,135,135,135,135} // Values 0-255 (RAMBO 135 = ~0.75A, 185 = ~1A)

Annnnd it looks like the motor's set current is 135 vs the reccmended 165.
Join me on my magical journey to read words on pages and not make the same mistakes as I do

[Jules]

If you have a single, that Mosfet (Extruder Heat 1) is left empty. (That is where you plug in the second extruder for a dual.) The E1 slot at the front is also reserved for the dual, as is the T1 slot for the thermistor.

Looks like you need to shift your wiring over to the E0 slot.

(Please keep in mind, I am not an electronics expert. You might want to wait to hear from one of the guys....we've got a couple of them here. Follow my advice at your own risk.)

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If you have a single, that Mosfet (Extruder Heat 1) is left empty. (That is where you plug in the second extruder for a dual.) The E1 slot at the front is also reserved for the dual, as is the T1 slot for the thermistor.

Looks like you need to shift your wiring over to the E0 slot.

(Please keep in mind, I am not an electronics expert. You might want to wait to hear from one of the guys....we've got a couple of them here. Follow my advice at your own risk.)

Thanks! I had did a wire swap form E1 to E0 on the board, but made no difference. I also edited the firmware with the supplied instructions on the page, and still no dice. Extruder fan also not turning on.
To make sure the extruder fan was functional, I plugged it into the FAN2 (one pointed at the model) slot and it worked okay.
In the midst of moving fans around, I managed to wriggle the red wire out on the fan, and there was a spark. Only looked like a spark between the two wires. Checked the make sure the connection point was still good with the other fan and it is, so it looks like no harm no foul (other than this fan I'll be resoldering and testing).

It's pointing more and more towards some sort of firmware setting I'm not doing right. I'll wait for the knowledge of others while I browse firmware stuffs.

[ednisley]

Only looked like a spark between the two wires.

Public Service Announcement

ALWAYS TURN THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON THE ELECTRONICS

That "spark between the two wires" came from a short between the MOSFET controlling the fan and the power supply. MOSFETs are reasonably rugged, but power supply short falls well outside their limits.

If you're lucky, it didn't kill the MOSFET.

If you're unlucky, which is most likely the case, then the MOSFET is dead. If you must use that channel, you'll be buying another RAMBo board.

Also, if you unplugged and replugged the extruder motor cable with the power on, then you have almost certainly killed the motor driver chip for any channel you plugged the cable into.

In that case, you will need a new RAMBo board.

ALWAYS TURN THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON THE ELECTRONICS

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Only looked like a spark between the two wires.

Public Service Announcement

ALWAYS TURN THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON THE ELECTRONICS

That "spark between the two wires" came from a short between the MOSFET controlling the fan and the power supply. MOSFETs are reasonably rugged, but power supply short falls well outside their limits.

If you're lucky, it didn't kill the MOSFET.

If you're unlucky, which is most likely the case, then the MOSFET is dead. If you must use that channel, you'll be buying another RAMBo board.

Also, if you unplugged and replugged the extruder motor cable with the power on, then you have almost certainly killed the motor driver chip for any channel you plugged the cable into.

In that case, you will need a new RAMBo board.

ALWAYS TURN THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON THE ELECTRONICS

The red wire next to the fan itself had some loose, which is what caused the spark. Nowhere near the board, no worries. I turn the power off for every thing, but I'm guilty of plugging and unplugging fans. I tested the fan, XYZ stepper motors, Bed heat and nozzle heat and it's all okay.

I also did just notice I haven't been hearing the fan for the RAMBO board itself spinning for the past few days, had only been focused on the fans by the extruder.

[ednisley]

Nowhere near the board, no worries.

The other end of those wires plugs into the RAMBo… that's where the damage happens.

MOSFETs tend to fail shorted: should you discover you can't turn the fan off, now you know what happened.

[branchedout]

Nowhere near the board, no worries.

The other end of those wires plugs into the RAMBo… that's where the damage happens.

MOSFETs tend to fail shorted: should you discover you can't turn the fan off, now you know what happened.

I see. I'm not sure what to start testing as I haven't had a good base to start with. Everything right now is exactly the same before the short as far as I can see. But, if I did definitely short it, I've bee reading up on a DuetWifi; do you think it'd be compatible with the M2? I think I want to say it'd be a difficult swap with thermistor/thermocouple (have not learned much about these yet)

[Jules]

You might want to start a ticket with MakerGear support:

http://www.makergear.com/pages/support