I'm using some Paramount 3D PLA. It's awful stuff that warps like crazy and is hard to get to stick to the bed. However, they have some unique colors. I'm printing soem stuff for a college, and I need to use their "iron red" for a good color match to one of the school colors.
I'm printing a model now with a flat region using 10% infil. The best way to avoid warping issues seems to be to print it with glue stick on Kapton, with no fan what so ever. The problem I'm having is that without cooling, the upper layers are sagging into the voids of the infil. In effect, I'm getting bridging problems over the infil.
On the M2E, the minimum cooling percentage that is actually guaranteed to spin the fan is about 40%. If I run with that all the time, I know I will get warping & loss of adhesion. I'm going to experiment with running JUST on the critical layers, and hope that isn't too much.
Any other tricks I should try?
Thanks!
To Cool or Not to Cool?...
Re: To Cool or Not to Cool?...
Print faster to bridge better?
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- willnewton
- Posts: 479
- Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:32 pm
Re: To Cool or Not to Cool?...
Have you printed a fan duct to help focus the airflow at the nozzle? That may help.
You could also increase your infill thickness. Thicker infill stacks on itself better.
You could also increase your infill % so the bridging distance is shorter.
You could also increase your infill thickness. Thicker infill stacks on itself better.
You could also increase your infill % so the bridging distance is shorter.
I'm finally back to where I started two days ago!
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites
A thread with some stuff in it I update every once in a while. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9
See some of my stuff http://www.thingiverse.com/willnewton/favorites