dent & tail at end, opposite corner a mess

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dent & tail at end, opposite corner a mess

Postby airscapes » Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:13 am

So I have about 2 dozen solid calibration squares. I'm about burnt out of ideas on what setting to change.
Tried wipe with different lengths, Coast with different lengths, single extrude endpoint extension distance, retraction speed, force retraction on layer change, direction inside out and outside in and probably a few others I have forgotten about.

Corner where print ends leave a divot with a string tail. opposite corner is all mucked up. want to change the start point to the center of the square rather then the corner but can not figure out what to enter into the x y entry of the choose starting point.. no matter what i enter t stays the same.
When optometrist is chosen it is the same, when random is picked it has zits all around and still the corner is messed up.

The picture is the last print of the night and was done outside in which seems to have improved things a little as corner is now a straight dent rather than all over the place. and the dent and tail are less than inside out direction. I really think this is the zit issue and they are all in one spot as not randomized.. Rest of square has nice corners and edges

corner.jpg

tail.jpg
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Re: dent & tail at end, opposite corner a mess

Postby ednisley » Sun Mar 25, 2018 1:25 pm

airscapes wrote:probably a few others I have forgotten about


You need a notebook or at least some paper to keep track of things. Honest.

Return everything (*) to the default values.

Run solid squares with Retraction varying from 0 through 1.6 mm by 0.2 mm, then pick the one you like best. If two are about the same, split the difference.

The Wipe and Coast settings can fine-tune that, but they're best reserved for more complex objects.

When optometrist is chosen


Dang that autocorrect, right? [grin]

You can't completely eliminate the zit where the extruder stops, retracts, moves to another layer, then restarts, but letting the slicer put the zit at a (concave) corner tends to hide the defect. If the object doesn't have any concave corners, then the slicer puts them at a convex corner, which at least makes convex zits easy to remove. Randomizing the location scatters them all over, which generally doesn't look nearly as good.

Your M2, as mistuned as you think it is, produces much better results than my ancient Thing-O-Matic. This walkthough may help explain the problems:
https://softsolder.com/2011/08/13/reversal-zits-analysis/

Image

When you're tuning slicer settings, change one thing at a time and keep track of what you're doing. Changing All The Things generally produces awful results, leaves you with a broken configuration, and wastes far more time than a systematic (pronounced "boring") exploration of the possibilities.

(*) Except filament diameter & Extrustion Multiplier, which you've already set properly.
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Re: dent & tail at end, opposite corner a mess

Postby airscapes » Sun Mar 25, 2018 11:13 pm

ednisley wrote:
When you're tuning slicer settings, change one thing at a time and keep track of what you're doing. Changing All The Things generally produces awful results, leaves you with a broken configuration, and wastes far more time than a systematic (pronounced "boring") exploration of the possibilities.

(*) Except filament diameter & Extrustion Multiplier, which you've already set properly.



Yes, I did all of those thing one at a time in small increment, returning to default when no improvements were found.. I took your original advice and as a programmer / Unix admin.. more than one change at a time without a test in between is asking for trouble.

UPDATE.. below setting have no effect on this issue, Thin wall must be free standing and not the perimeter..
One thing I realized this morning while drive to visit my mom was that I have 4 solid shell layers being printed and the infill is 100%. Not sure if "Thin Wall Behavior" is in play with the outer shell or just with free standing thin walls.. But I have had that set to:
"External Thin Wall Type" = Allow Single Extrude
"Internal Thin Wall Type" = Allow single extrude fill

Default is:
"External Thin Wall Type" = Perimeter only
"Internal Thin Wall Type" = Allow gap fill.

Just wondering if the part would be printing with 4 single extrudes as it is now for the outer walls, if this was set to default. Seems like the zits would be reduced if I didn't have 4 extrudes ending at the same place. Will try this after dinner. But I guess if only the outer is a single extrude I will get the same results.
Being obsessive with perfection is probably a bad thing with this medium! :oops:

My test pile from Friday and Saturday.. +1 :shock:

junk2.jpg
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Re: dent & tail at end, opposite corner a mess

Postby zemlin » Mon Mar 26, 2018 11:41 am

airscapes wrote:UPDATE.. below setting have no effect on this issue, Thin wall must be free standing and not the perimeter..

"External Thin Wall Type" = Allow Single Extrude
"Internal Thin Wall Type" = Allow single extrude fill

Default is:
"External Thin Wall Type" = Perimeter only
"Internal Thin Wall Type" = Allow gap fill.


correct, you don't have any thin walls on this part - internal or external. My normal settings is to have EXTERNAL set to Perimeter Only. I would change this only if I was making a part with thin wall sections. INTERNAL I always have set to Single Extrusion Fill.
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Re: dent & tail at end, opposite corner a mess

Postby ednisley » Mon Mar 26, 2018 2:45 pm

airscapes wrote:Being obsessive with perfection is probably a bad thing


Yes, indeed.

Folks seem to get wedged in a crisis of rising expectations when something built with a hot-melt glue gun doesn't have the same surface finish as an injection-molded part.

The fact you can see defects you can't measure also comes into play.

Perusing the projects in the Brag Section will give you an idea of how much effort you must lavish on a 3D printed part to produce perfect surface finish:
http://forum.makergear.com/viewforum.php?f=6

Me, I just use 'em as-is, because everything I make looks like a bracket ...
https://softsolder.com/2017/08/11/tour-easy-daytime-running-light-improved-ball-mount/

Image

Tune the printer to "pretty good", start making Useful Stuff, and worry about finicky details when they become a problem.

Works for me, anyhow.
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