Printing Nylon

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sprior
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Re: Printing Nylon

Post by sprior » Mon Aug 11, 2014 4:00 am

The other thing you should consider is Taulman Bridge Nylon instead of their 618. It sticks plenty fine for me on bare glass with Elmers glue stick at 110C. In fact once it stuck so well it pulled a divot out of the glass when I got it up. Bridge is supposed to cure a bunch of the quirks in 618. The problem I ran into with it was the filament not being round and being oversize and getting stuck in the guide tube. I ended up replacing my guide tube with a slightly wider one (2mm actual instead of the slightly smaller stock one) made from teflon and didn't have that problem again. On a side note the guide tube that comes with the dual extruder upgrade was 3/16" inch so it seems that MakerGear has decided they can go a little bigger with no problems since the filament is pulled not pushed through the tube.

Taulman support told me that for their T-Glase they recommend using the glue not to increase the bed hold, but actually to decrease it to minimize the risk of pulling up glass.

markb
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Re: Printing Nylon

Post by markb » Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:22 am

1oldclown wrote:I've been printing nylon618 on office paper first glued to my HBP glass, and then covered in a layer of glue. I use Elmer's clear washable school glue for both parts and spread the glue with a small squeegee. I apply the glue to the glass before I start to heat the bed then put the paper down. Sometimes I use a piece just larger than the footprint of the print, and sometimes I cover the whole piece of glass. You will get some winkles in the paper at first. I smooth these with the squeegee. As the bed heats the water evaporates and most of the winkle go away. Then I add a bit of glue to the top of the paper and let it dry.

I recheck my z height and then print as normal. I've printed two pounds of nylon this way with no lifting or print fails.

To remove the print you can either pry the print up, tearing the paper, or soak the plate in warm water and luge print will fall off. The bed side of the print comes out as a matte finish. Any residual paper washes off in warm water.

Haven't tried this in PET, but am guessing that it will work.

It sound like a hassle, and is compared to other methods, but I like the reliability.

FYI I tried tracing paper and it was a fail. Plain paper pulled from the recycle works great.....
Nice idea. Thanks for sharing I will have to give this a try.

markb
Posts: 180
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2014 11:06 pm

Re: Printing Nylon

Post by markb » Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:12 pm

sprior wrote:The other thing you should consider is Taulman Bridge Nylon instead of their 618. It sticks plenty fine for me on bare glass with Elmers glue stick at 110C. In fact once it stuck so well it pulled a divot out of the glass when I got it up. Bridge is supposed to cure a bunch of the quirks in 618. The problem I ran into with it was the filament not being round and being oversize and getting stuck in the guide tube. I ended up replacing my guide tube with a slightly wider one (2mm actual instead of the slightly smaller stock one) made from teflon and didn't have that problem again. On a side note the guide tube that comes with the dual extruder upgrade was 3/16" inch so it seems that MakerGear has decided they can go a little bigger with no problems since the filament is pulled not pushed through the tube.

Taulman support told me that for their T-Glase they recommend using the glue not to increase the bed hold, but actually to decrease it to minimize the risk of pulling up glass.
I just ordered some Taulman Bridge Nylon can you share your FFF settings.
Thanks.
Mark

sprior
Posts: 380
Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:37 pm

Re: Printing Nylon

Post by sprior » Thu Aug 14, 2014 12:48 am

I think I just used rsilvers ABS profiles from: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:269637

It druels a lot at temp, so right before you start the print prime the extruder - whatever you've probably got by default to prime the nozzle probably isn't enough. Also move the hot end off to the side of the bed when heating.

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jimc
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Re: Printing Nylon

Post by jimc » Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:23 am

you gotta put the stuff in the oven for awhile to dry it. the heavy moisture in it makes the oozing 10 times as bad as it should be.

sprior
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Re: Printing Nylon

Post by sprior » Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:25 am

So it comes moisture laden right from the factory still sealed? I'm getting less surprised by this.

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jimc
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Re: Printing Nylon

Post by jimc » Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:29 am

oh yes! without a doubt. nylon can be wrapped up with desiccant bags and everything. it helps but nylon is bad for sucking up moisture.

sprior
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Re: Printing Nylon

Post by sprior » Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:31 am

So what's the recipe for homestyle baked nylon? :D

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jimc
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Re: Printing Nylon

Post by jimc » Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:39 am

maybe 140-150 deg for a couple few hrs. the nylon has no problem with the temp but taulman's spools dont handle it any higher. the spool gets all warped.

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