MakerGear Forum

I just replaced the electronics board on my M2E, reloaded the Marlin firmware, found everything running in the correct direction, homing correctly etc, BUT.

The Z level reached during the Quick Start exercise is more than an inch beneath the nozzle tip. In the past, this initial level has been more like 1/4 inch.

i assume that there must be a number for this height buried somewhere in the Marlin code. Is it there, and if so where?

on the terminal type M503
Look at the line near the end of the output that says 206
The Z= xx.xx is your offset, mine is 12.xx but it all depends on how fare the set screws are in under the corners. When I put on a 1/4 think fiberglass bed the number changes to 9 for me.. so maybe start at 10 to be safej
Remove the filament and wipe the nozzle while hot to make sure it is nice an clean
loosen the hot end and raise it as far as it will go and snug the lock screw to make sure it is out of the way
execute M206 Z=10.00 (set offset to 10mm)
execute M500 (save setting to eeprom)
execute G28 (will home everything)
then G1 F1000 X100 Y125 Z0 (will put your hot end at Z0 - the offset in the center of the plate_
Place your feeler gauge under the nozzle and loosen the lock screw. The pressure exerted by the wiring along with gravity will drop the nozzle on the feeler gauge. Tighten the lock screw.
Print calibration square that I have attached (assuming .35mm nozzle and .4 Extrusion width) it should measure 2.98- 3.02 mm in height. I shoot for 2.98 to 3.0 for best adhesion. I also set my first layer height in S3d to 100% as not squish is needed when set up correctly.
If your wall heights are off, adjust 206, the bigger the number the CLOSER to the bed you are the smaller the number the father away.
i.e if square is 3.05mm tall set 206 Z=10.05 then M500 to save and reprint, should then be 3mm tall +-
This is how I set my Z offset, never do I use that app..

Thanks much.

I cheated, cleaned up the old board which already had the calibration and am using it. I also installed the T-Link switch to the power supply. Octopi is not power through that switch so I can use the CAM to see what'as going on from home as well as monitor octopi via VPN.

It is a good idea to run M503 and saver the output for future reference

great idea, thanks again