Prints pulling up at corners

naturalstate720 · Post by **naturalstate720** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 12:54 am

The brim was very thin. But everyone kept telling me I was too far away.

I actually just got a zebra delivered. Maybe that will be my savior.

Should I use heat for PLA on the zebra plate?

Why only 1 layer on brim? Does't it make sense to have more? The other person said 3-4 layers.

Pekish79 · Post by **Pekish79** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 1:27 am

I use zebra my bed temp is usually 37 or 38

and in the brim in one layer maximum 2 (really really rare cases) but 6-8 line thickness sometimes

zebra in rarely 100% flat so u have to calibrate the bed often no tape no glue no nothing but when you set up the Z-stop you need to pay a little attention start from getting close enough and then tight the nod little by little if you get too close you make leave a mark on the plate

^_^ my first zebra plate (the one i used to learn now is covered on 1 side with PEI since i totally destroyed one side)
the new zebra plate i use since 1 month now is still perfect this mean you will learn just making mistakes there is no really other way

naturalstate720 · Post by **naturalstate720** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 1:33 am

So the instructions say no heat for PLA on zebra.
Can anyone else weigh in, what are my best chances to no warping?

It's almost done w/ brim now and it's looking good. But I cannot have warping or the two pieces will not go together.

Jules · Post by **Jules** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 1:41 am

naturalstate720 wrote:So the instructions say no heat for PLA on zebra.
Can anyone else weigh in, what are my best chances to no warping?

It's almost done w/ brim now and it's looking good. But I cannot have warping or the two pieces will not go together.

Even though the instructions for the Zebra say no heat for PLA, you NEED heat for PLA on a Zebra. Ignore the instructions or it's going to warp.
I used in the 40 to 50 degree range, but it's warm here. Try 50-55.

If the print hasn't warped and it's almost done, it should be fine.....LET IT COOL COMPLETELY to room temperature before you try to take it off the plate. (One half hour at least with the plate removed from the hot bed.) Do not bend it off, run a spatula under one edge and then lift it off carefully, by running the spatula around underneath it to break the seal.

naturalstate720 · Post by **naturalstate720** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 2:12 am

This is gonna be a 12 hour print. Ok just turned on bed to 40

naturalstate720 · Post by **naturalstate720** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 2:14 am

It's looking good so far. Just hope the brim is big enough, it's still only 5 mill from outer edge of a few supports even though I increased it to 20mm.

The 3-4 layers seemed too thick to even seperate from the failed print earlier. So maybe 1 layer is better in that regard, so I can cleanly separate.

Jules · Post by **Jules** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 2:16 am

naturalstate720 wrote:It's looking good so far. Just hope the brim is big enough, it's still only 5 mill from outer edge of a few supports even though I increased it to 20mm.

The 3-4 layers seemed too thick to even seperate from the failed print earlier. So maybe 1 layer is better in that regard, so I can cleanly separate.

Yes, a brim doesn't have to be thicker than one or two layers at most.

naturalstate720 · Post by **naturalstate720** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 2:31 am

I hear this clicking collision sound every now again and that worries me. Like the nozzle is hitting one of the supports as it zips by. I hope it doesn't dislodge the model. Is this because the zebra plate is not flat? Anything I can do to prevent this while its printing? I mean I'm a dead man, probably fired if this thing does not work.

jimc · Post by **jimc** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 2:42 am

do you have any vertical lift set? you should always have a little bit. mine is always set to .2mm. the bed will drop .2mm befre any travel move so it doesnt knock into anything during the jump. the average mechanically inclined person has about a 3 month learning curve when they get a printer. thats printing every day. i tell people its no different than taking just any person off the street, sticking them in a machine shop in front of a cnc mill with some metal on the floor and a computer and say here make this part and it needs to be perfect. its just not happening. there is alot to learn about this and it doesnt happen over night. what im sure has you even more frustrated is that your under this deadline. your nozzle can be hitting due to the part warping up or over-exstrusion.

as for the brim, it depends on your layer height. i usually like .3-.4mm thickness. so if your printing very fine at .1mm then yes 3-4 layers but at .2mm then i would use 2. .3mm then 1....you get the idea

Jules · Post by **Jules** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 3:23 am

naturalstate720 wrote:I hear this clicking collision sound every now again and that worries me. Like the nozzle is hitting one of the supports as it zips by. I hope it doesn't dislodge the model. Is this because the zebra plate is not flat? Anything I can do to prevent this while its printing? I mean I'm a dead man, probably fired if this thing does not work.

Might knock down the support. Probably won't hurt the print.

(But I'm somewhat concerned that the first time you try the Zebra plate is the time that you need to have everything go absolutely perfectly. Not the best idea. It is a switch in materials, and printing techniques, and there's a learning curve associated with it.)

Hoping for the best. You did clamp the plate down, correct? The plates warp when heated unless they are clamped.

Prints pulling up at corners

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Re: Prints pulling up at corners