M2 .stl files

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Capt. John
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Location: Manistee, MI
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M2 .stl files

Post by Capt. John » Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:38 am

All M2 printed parts are at:

https://github.com/MakerGear/M2/tree/a3 ... 0Parts/STL

Click the RAW option in the right top border to download .stl files.

If you're new to 3D printing like myself? ...you're looking for practice projects.
Most important is to have standby parts on hand for your M2.

Print out an Extruder Motor Mount and a Filament Drive.

These parts are a must. Due to use the above mentioned can and will fail.
Having a few spares on-hand is priceless.

ABS is used to make replacement parts.
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com

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Tim
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Location: Poolesville, Maryland
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Re: M2 .stl files

Post by Tim » Fri Jun 27, 2014 1:24 pm

A few things should be mentioned about the M2 replacement part prints. . .

The filament drive must be printed with support due to lots of overhangs, regardless of the orientation. However, automatic support will fill the tiny hole through the middle where the filament goes. Needless to say, this hole needs to be smooth if you don't want your filament binding. So boring it out with a drill or an awl is a must.

Go to rsliver's page on Thingiverse if you want an improved filament drive, with a gentle snap-fit for the hot-end and a filament guide at the top that holds the tube straight. Rob also has a nice replacement Z-knob that's easier to grip than the standard one.

The motor mount can print without support without much trouble, as the overhangs (on the bolt holes and tie-down holes) are small; any sag caused by lack of support is not going to prevent the bolt or tie-down from going through.

Print all parts at 80% to 100% fill. Jim recommends 100% fill, but if your numbers aren't dialed in exactly right, and you are over-extruding a bit, then 100% infill can cause problems; I prefer to dial it back a bit to 80%; there's very little difference in the result.

A few of us on the forum are using PET+ for the replacement parts. Nobody has had PET+ for long enough to know the long-term reliability, but at least in the short term, it appears to work as well as ABS. The main thing is to make sure that you use a higher-temperature plastic. If you've ever pressed a hot coffee mug against a PLA print, you'll know why.

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