ABS printing surface
Re: ABS printing surface
That will get the job done. It just wont last a long time before it wears out.
Re: ABS printing surface
I have it cut to size and glass beading is done. What temp do you use for ABS. it seems to take longer to heat up but once hot it seems hotter than the glass.jimc wrote:For alum you should get mic6 tooling plate. Its cast and stress free so it stays flat when its heated and cooled. You can get it from mcmaster or online metals. Its machined on both sides. You will need to find someone with a blast cabinet to glass bead it for you and cut to exact size
Re: ABS printing surface
Metal will feel hotter than glass at the same temperature because it has higher thermal conductivity. It's the same temperature, but it's just dumping that heat to your hand faster.
Re: ABS printing surface
I run my bed at 96. No need to go any higher really. It will take a little longer to heat but should still be relatively fast. 10-12 min maybe.
Re: ABS printing surface
Me too. I'm interested in this glass, can you PM me? Apparently I'm too much of a newb to be able to PMmarkb wrote:Send me a PM on this glass I am printing a lot ABS right now.
- Capt. John
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:48 pm
- Location: Manistee, MI
- Contact:
Re: ABS printing surface
Can help you with the way to pm members, just click on their name, new page opens with a cleared marked
link to send personal messages.
Stock glass build bed at 110C and hair spray work for me and I print a lot of ABS, but my models have a large footprint and
are not very tall. While my help on the mechanics to print ABS are a long ways behind our more advanced members,
make sure the room is warm and free of drafts. Used a makeshift 3 sided cardboard box with a lid and got by.
Smaller models in the center of the bed stick well, out towards the edge of the build bed is where I'll get some lift and parts curl.
Some here have heated build cambers. A very warm a build chamber is something I have a hard time with.
Extruder motor get very hot on it's own and too warm environment is only going to make this worse.
link to send personal messages.
Stock glass build bed at 110C and hair spray work for me and I print a lot of ABS, but my models have a large footprint and
are not very tall. While my help on the mechanics to print ABS are a long ways behind our more advanced members,
make sure the room is warm and free of drafts. Used a makeshift 3 sided cardboard box with a lid and got by.
Smaller models in the center of the bed stick well, out towards the edge of the build bed is where I'll get some lift and parts curl.
Some here have heated build cambers. A very warm a build chamber is something I have a hard time with.
Extruder motor get very hot on it's own and too warm environment is only going to make this worse.
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com
Re: ABS printing surface
Thanks for the help. I know how to PM, the system won't let me. Says "you need more experience to use this feature". I just registered.
Thanks for the advice on the ABS. I'll try some of these. I'm printing a fairly slender but tall object (~6"), getting the design right with PLA, then will move to ABS. Printing the PLA on a raft has been quite successful (although I clearly need to tweak my bed leveling techniques ). Are you printing on a raft, or just the straight part?
Unfortunately, because of the noise and odor, I'm printing in a garage -- it's heated, but not "warm", and I can't control the drafts. The box is an interesting idea, and that could certainly work. I'll probably try that to control the environment better.
Thanks again for the help,
Chris
Thanks for the advice on the ABS. I'll try some of these. I'm printing a fairly slender but tall object (~6"), getting the design right with PLA, then will move to ABS. Printing the PLA on a raft has been quite successful (although I clearly need to tweak my bed leveling techniques ). Are you printing on a raft, or just the straight part?
Unfortunately, because of the noise and odor, I'm printing in a garage -- it's heated, but not "warm", and I can't control the drafts. The box is an interesting idea, and that could certainly work. I'll probably try that to control the environment better.
Thanks again for the help,
Chris