ABS printing surface

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jimc
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Re: ABS printing surface

Post by jimc » Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:41 am

That will get the job done. It just wont last a long time before it wears out.

markb
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Re: ABS printing surface

Post by markb » Fri Sep 19, 2014 9:49 pm

jimc wrote:For alum you should get mic6 tooling plate. Its cast and stress free so it stays flat when its heated and cooled. You can get it from mcmaster or online metals. Its machined on both sides. You will need to find someone with a blast cabinet to glass bead it for you and cut to exact size
I have it cut to size and glass beading is done. What temp do you use for ABS. it seems to take longer to heat up but once hot it seems hotter than the glass.

jsc
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Re: ABS printing surface

Post by jsc » Fri Sep 19, 2014 11:33 pm

Metal will feel hotter than glass at the same temperature because it has higher thermal conductivity. It's the same temperature, but it's just dumping that heat to your hand faster.

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jimc
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Re: ABS printing surface

Post by jimc » Sun Sep 21, 2014 1:24 pm

I run my bed at 96. No need to go any higher really. It will take a little longer to heat but should still be relatively fast. 10-12 min maybe.

clwill
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Re: ABS printing surface

Post by clwill » Mon Dec 08, 2014 3:47 am

markb wrote:Send me a PM on this glass I am printing a lot ABS right now.
Me too. I'm interested in this glass, can you PM me? Apparently I'm too much of a newb to be able to PM :D

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Capt. John
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Re: ABS printing surface

Post by Capt. John » Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:55 am

Can help you with the way to pm members, just click on their name, new page opens with a cleared marked
link to send personal messages.

Stock glass build bed at 110C and hair spray work for me and I print a lot of ABS, but my models have a large footprint and
are not very tall. While my help on the mechanics to print ABS are a long ways behind our more advanced members,
make sure the room is warm and free of drafts. Used a makeshift 3 sided cardboard box with a lid and got by.

Smaller models in the center of the bed stick well, out towards the edge of the build bed is where I'll get some lift and parts curl.

Some here have heated build cambers. A very warm a build chamber is something I have a hard time with.
Extruder motor get very hot on it's own and too warm environment is only going to make this worse.
Capt. John
Manistee, Michigan
Reel Amateur at 3D printing
Fishing Tackle Manufacturer & Webmaster for:
http://www.michiganangler.com
http://www.michigansportsman.com

clwill
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Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2014 10:38 pm

Re: ABS printing surface

Post by clwill » Tue Dec 09, 2014 5:25 am

Thanks for the help. I know how to PM, the system won't let me. Says "you need more experience to use this feature". I just registered.

Thanks for the advice on the ABS. I'll try some of these. I'm printing a fairly slender but tall object (~6"), getting the design right with PLA, then will move to ABS. Printing the PLA on a raft has been quite successful (although I clearly need to tweak my bed leveling techniques :) ). Are you printing on a raft, or just the straight part?

Unfortunately, because of the noise and odor, I'm printing in a garage -- it's heated, but not "warm", and I can't control the drafts. The box is an interesting idea, and that could certainly work. I'll probably try that to control the environment better.

Thanks again for the help,
Chris

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