Cracked the borosilicate trying to remove pla print...

[Capt. John]

Put it in the freezer for a while, prints come off easy then.

[Dave K]

I have done it both ways but i can confirm what you are saying. It does seem to stick slightly better when it goes on cold. If i apply it hot there is no chance whatsoever that it will stick. Also it seems like a single layer of glue works better than multiple coats.

I use the disappearing purple school glue stick by Elmer's. I always put it on unheated glass, and always a single layer. It doesn't seem to work quite as well if I apply it and then let it sit around for a while before printing. And once the glass is heated, if you don't go ahead with the print and let the bed cool down for some reason, you may want to reapply. I've done that twice and glue that has been heated, cooled, and reheated didn't work well for me. I've never used it without heat.

I doubt that tells you anything new, but for me, that works. Sometimes too well.

[jimc]

ok yes i have the same glue stick. those are basically what i have found dave. thanks for confirming. the only difference is that when i get it to stick the bond is only very slight. i am not using pla though. this is with abs, bridge or pet.

[pyronaught]

ok yes i have the same glue stick. those are basically what i have found dave. thanks for confirming. the only difference is that when i get it to stick the bond is only very slight. i am not using pla though. this is with abs, bridge or pet.

If you are printing on an aluminum plate then that would be a variable that is not in common with the rest of us having good luck with glue stick. Maybe it only works well on glass.

[jimc]

Already been down that road. I put my glass back on and tried gluestick as well.

[jdacal]

I use 3 coats on mine. Light coats, I just press down light enough to leave a light coat even if it leaves some gaps. I first do a coat with strokes along the Y axis, then strokes along the X axis. Depending on if I see any gaps I missed I'll then do another set of strokes along the Y axis again or maybe diagonally. I always apply cold. When the bed heats the strokes kind of blend together into a nice smooth gluey layer. After the 3 coats are done there shouldn't be any gaps left.

Everything has stuck fine, only one issue with PETg on a print due to warping, but hasn't happened on other prints.