Hello.
So yeah, never printer anything. Don't even have my printer yet. I don't like re-inventing the wheel though so I'm am burning through these forums fast as I can. Trial and error will be a big part of this experience I'm sure, but I don't want to deal with anymore problems than I have to! Just dropping this thread to say hello and maybe catch a pointer or two if anyone is throwing them. Like I said, I'm going through these forums but there is a lot of repeat info and idle conversation. If anyone can steer me to the fundamental threads don't hesitate to chime in. I don't bite and I don't care if you are a total douche to me so long as your advice is solid.
Love Always,
MtG
New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
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Mark the Greater
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:27 pm
- Location: Brookfield, IL
Re: New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
Hi MtG, welcome to the nuthouse! 
Pointers -
Best advice I got when i started here a few months ago (brand spanking new, just like you) was to start getting familiar with the 3D design software I planned to use while i was waiting for the printer to be delivered. (Basically, anything you can do to get a grip on it is going to speed things up.)
The guys recommended several great 3D modeling programs, most were very expensive (but a lot easier to use than the free options), I settled on Rhino, which I have come to love in a few short months. There are a couple of threads on software - just take a look at those and decide which one will work to meet your needs and get going. (Or, if you already have something that you know - skip to the next pointer.)
You will need some simple tools (metric, thanks ed!) to get the machine up and running quickly, you can pick those up now (Amazon) if you don't have them:
1. A set of Feeler Gauges if you don't have one. They are invaluable in setting the Z-stop.
2. Set of Calipers. (Needed for calibrating the extrusion widths and heights.)
3. Buy a can of AquaNet Extra Super Hold Hairspray or Garnier Fructis Ultra Hold Hairspray, and an Elmer's Washable Purple School Glue stick. Either can be used to stick the prints to the bed and you might prefer one method over the other. Blue Painters tape is also a good idea to have on hand.
4. Sprue Cutters and Tweezer Nose Pliers, for removing support and cleaning up your prints.
5. If you have a Dremel tool, a good set of Burr Grinders is also great for removing junk.
6. Fine grade sand papers for smoothing.
7. Eye Protection. ALWAYS wear goggles when you are cleaning up a print - i got hit in the eyelid with a bit that flew off when it was snipped. (Thank God i was blinking at that exact moment.)
8. Gloves. Useful when prying a print off the glass. (You can cut yourself with the dull spatula when the print lets go.)
9. A small, thin bladed spatula for prying the print off the glass. Cricut makes a good one. (Amazon)
10. Or, as opposed to the hairspray and spatula route, you might want to try an 8" x 10" Zebra plate from PrintinZ. I recently got one and it is well worth the $45 price tag from an ease of use standpoint. (Or you might want to wait and change it out later once you are more proficient - up to you.)
Then when the machine arrives:
After you get your machine set up, you will set the Z-stop. (Very, very, very important to get that right, but to do it, you will need the smallest/shortest 8mm wrench that you can find, or you can probably use flat Needle Nose or Tweezer Nose pliers to do it - it's very hard to reach the nut. There is a printed Z-stop wrench that most of us use, but you won't have it at the beginning. ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:198811)
After that you calibrate the extrusion width and the height.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1964 ....and.... http://www.forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2193
Then you start printing and the addiction is complete.
Other helpful threads:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12 M2 Tips
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1712 Preventive maintenance for HBP power wires
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2132 How to Switch Colors/Pause and Resume Prints with a single extruder/
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1951 Insta's Filaments that work on the M2
Anything in the Getting Started and How To/Guides sections
Pointers -
Best advice I got when i started here a few months ago (brand spanking new, just like you) was to start getting familiar with the 3D design software I planned to use while i was waiting for the printer to be delivered. (Basically, anything you can do to get a grip on it is going to speed things up.)
The guys recommended several great 3D modeling programs, most were very expensive (but a lot easier to use than the free options), I settled on Rhino, which I have come to love in a few short months. There are a couple of threads on software - just take a look at those and decide which one will work to meet your needs and get going. (Or, if you already have something that you know - skip to the next pointer.)
You will need some simple tools (metric, thanks ed!) to get the machine up and running quickly, you can pick those up now (Amazon) if you don't have them:
1. A set of Feeler Gauges if you don't have one. They are invaluable in setting the Z-stop.
2. Set of Calipers. (Needed for calibrating the extrusion widths and heights.)
3. Buy a can of AquaNet Extra Super Hold Hairspray or Garnier Fructis Ultra Hold Hairspray, and an Elmer's Washable Purple School Glue stick. Either can be used to stick the prints to the bed and you might prefer one method over the other. Blue Painters tape is also a good idea to have on hand.
4. Sprue Cutters and Tweezer Nose Pliers, for removing support and cleaning up your prints.
5. If you have a Dremel tool, a good set of Burr Grinders is also great for removing junk.
6. Fine grade sand papers for smoothing.
7. Eye Protection. ALWAYS wear goggles when you are cleaning up a print - i got hit in the eyelid with a bit that flew off when it was snipped. (Thank God i was blinking at that exact moment.)
8. Gloves. Useful when prying a print off the glass. (You can cut yourself with the dull spatula when the print lets go.)
9. A small, thin bladed spatula for prying the print off the glass. Cricut makes a good one. (Amazon)
10. Or, as opposed to the hairspray and spatula route, you might want to try an 8" x 10" Zebra plate from PrintinZ. I recently got one and it is well worth the $45 price tag from an ease of use standpoint. (Or you might want to wait and change it out later once you are more proficient - up to you.)
Then when the machine arrives:
After you get your machine set up, you will set the Z-stop. (Very, very, very important to get that right, but to do it, you will need the smallest/shortest 8mm wrench that you can find, or you can probably use flat Needle Nose or Tweezer Nose pliers to do it - it's very hard to reach the nut. There is a printed Z-stop wrench that most of us use, but you won't have it at the beginning. ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:198811)
After that you calibrate the extrusion width and the height.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1964 ....and.... http://www.forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2193
Then you start printing and the addiction is complete.
Other helpful threads:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12 M2 Tips
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1712 Preventive maintenance for HBP power wires
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2132 How to Switch Colors/Pause and Resume Prints with a single extruder/
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1951 Insta's Filaments that work on the M2
Anything in the Getting Started and How To/Guides sections
Last edited by Jules on Tue Jul 28, 2015 7:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
Man, Jules is thorough. I was going to put up some links and she's covered them all and more.
Welcome to the group.
Welcome to the group.
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Mark the Greater
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:27 pm
- Location: Brookfield, IL
Re: New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
That rare and illusive warmandfuzzy came over me reading your reply. That you kindly Jules.
I run SolidWorks but may check out Rhino. I've seen it mentioned here several times and I do so like to know what the Hell is going on around me. I've needed a new set of gauges for a while now and this seems like the perfect excuse.
The rest, well I will do my best to work that advice into the back of my mind somewhere. I bought the kit to help me get a better understanding of what is where, who needs what adjusted, and the most important: what the fuck is this piece?
I am really looking forward to actually being able to get shit out of my head and into the real world!
I run SolidWorks but may check out Rhino. I've seen it mentioned here several times and I do so like to know what the Hell is going on around me. I've needed a new set of gauges for a while now and this seems like the perfect excuse.
The rest, well I will do my best to work that advice into the back of my mind somewhere. I bought the kit to help me get a better understanding of what is where, who needs what adjusted, and the most important: what the fuck is this piece?
I am really looking forward to actually being able to get shit out of my head and into the real world!
Re: New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
jsc wrote:Man, Jules is thorough. I was going to put up some links and she's covered them all and more....
Sorry! (Think i must have been a teacher in a previous life or something.)Re: New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
Aha! in that case, go to YouTube and type this into the search: makergear m2 assemblyMark the Greater wrote: I bought the kit to help me get a better understanding of what is where.....
Happy viewing!
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Mark the Greater
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:27 pm
- Location: Brookfield, IL
Re: New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
On it. Have to say though, I think I would like the one for the Browning M2 assembly better...
Re: New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
Mark the Greater wrote:On it. Have to say though, I think I would like the one for the Browning M2 assembly better...
Yeah, i'm pretty sure hubs would agree. (I make things, he shoots things.....i make things while he's out shooting things. It all works out.)
Re: New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
When you're buying feelers, shims, & suchlike: metric FTW!Jules wrote:some simple tools
Most of the small printer-specific dimensions have hard-metric sizes: filament diameters, extruded thread widths & thicknesses, Z offsets, and so forth. Converting to-and-from inch units adds one more thing to get wrong.
Although you can design your solid models in inches, STL files carry no inherent unit and the entire Free Software tool chain assumes millimeters, right down to the firmware in the printer. When your model comes out REALLY BIG or invisibly small, that's what happened; everybody trips over it, even after being warned.
Oh, and expect to have the printer take your mind off all your other projects...
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Mark the Greater
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:27 pm
- Location: Brookfield, IL
Re: New new to this. They haven't even shipped my M2 yet.
But I hate that system! I have zero metric tooling in my shop. Isn't this thing made in Ohio? WTF Ohio?ednisley wrote:metric FTW!
All my other projects are held up because I don't have my own printer!ednisley wrote:Oh, and expect to have the printer take your mind off all your other projects...
Love Always,
MtG
MtG