First print-- issues with tallthin.g from the SD card...

[minusbacon]

Not sure what to do here...

At the moment, my z stop is perfect. When I slide the extruder to the left or right of the bed, the feeler gauge won't even slide between the nozzle and the plate. I followed the instructions that came with the plate-- spun it on a flat surface, black side down spun easier so I put it black side down on the print bed. Should I remove the zebra and try to remove the bow?

Don't think I should leave it as it is since the left and right sides are both touching the nozzle.

[minusbacon]

I walk over and clip it to the bed. That's it. (unless you count the ritualistic hoodoo dance)

Maybe that's my problem-- I'm not doing the right dance.

In the zebra topic someone mentioned oil from your skin caused adhesion issues and recommended going over it with alcohol before printing. So I just figured there might be some kinda prep you guys usually do.

[minusbacon]

...How often do you find filaments measure different?

Every single time.

Does changing filament diameter in your slicer actually effect other settings?

Yep. It affects the rate of extrusion.

Back to this...

How do you figure out the measurement to put in the filament diameter setting? Example-- do you take X measurements from Y" from the end of the filament then use the average? Or another way? I have a spool of silver PLA from MakerGear. I get measurements ranging 1.67mm - 1.73mm between the end of the spool and 6" from the end.

I've been leaving this setting at 1.75mm regardless of the measurements I get. So far as long as I've been getting the extrusion multiplier and z offset right, prints have been pretty decent.

[ednisley]

the feeler gauge won't even slide between the nozzle and the plate.

That definitely won't end well.

You can measure the distortion in the sheet by setting the nozzle a known distance (use a feeler gauge) from the highest spot (the smallest distance to the nozzle), measuring the lowest spot (the greatest distance to the nozzle) with the thickest feeler gauge that fits, and subtracting.

If the difference is less than 0.10 mm, then it's survivable. Move the nozzle to the high spot and set the initial gap slightly (as in, about 0.05 mm) smaller than whatever you've been using.

If it's more, then you probably can't get good adhesion in the low spots, no matter how miraculous the claims of the build plate's adhesion may be.

[Jules]

Not sure what to do here...

Should I remove the zebra and try to remove the bow?

Don't think I should leave it as it is since the left and right sides are both touching the nozzle.

Yes. Bend the plate out flat. It will stay once you do.

[Jules]

Back to this...How do you figure out the measurement to put in the filament diameter setting? Example-- do you take X measurements from Y" from the end of the filament then use the average? Or another way? I have a spool of silver PLA from MakerGear. I get measurements ranging 1.67mm - 1.73mm between the end of the spool and 6" from the end.

I take an average of from 6 to 12 measurements along a 3 foot length of filament, depending on how much variation i am seeing in the diameter.

I've been leaving this setting at 1.75mm regardless of the measurements I get. So far as long as I've been getting the extrusion multiplier and z offset right, prints have been pretty decent.

Your call. If you are happy with the prints you're getting, keep doing it that way. That's the reason it's the default average.

[minusbacon]

the feeler gauge won't even slide between the nozzle and the plate.

That definitely won't end well.

You can measure the distortion in the sheet by setting the nozzle a known distance (use a feeler gauge) from the highest spot (the smallest distance to the nozzle), measuring the lowest spot (the greatest distance to the nozzle) with the thickest feeler gauge that fits, and subtracting.

If the difference is less than 0.10 mm, then it's survivable. Move the nozzle to the high spot and set the initial gap slightly (as in, about 0.05 mm) smaller than whatever you've been using.

If it's more, then you probably can't get good adhesion in the low spots, no matter how miraculous the claims of the build plate's adhesion may be.

I've been thinking about this and had an idea but not sure if it's feasible.

I used sthone's z-stop and bed leveling guide. (viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2783). In it he says...

I like to start by tightening the three adjustment screws until they are snug and then backing them all off equally at least a full turn. This makes sure I have enough adjustment room in both directions.

...which is exactly what I did.

The issue: no gap between the nozzle and bed on the left and right sides after setting the z-stop. The gap is perfect for the front and back.

I was thinking that I could lower the whole bed using the leveling screws. That would open up the gap on the left and right sides, then I could just level it again.

I thought I was onto something for a moment, but then I remembered there are only three screws used for leveling. Now I'm not sure sure if it'd work. If there were four screws then the odds would be in my favor-- adjust all four so the bed lowers, redo z-stop, then level the bed.

I understand that the idea might not change a thing due to the zebra plate not being flat BUT it would at least give me a gap between the nozzle and plate on the left and right sides which is MUCH better than no gap at all.

Thoughts anyone?

[jsc]

You should use the Z end stop screw to adjust for height. You *can* use the leveling screws to drop the whole bed by backing off everything the correct amount, even with only three screws. The top and bottom screws define a line of rotation around which the right screw adjusts. If you back off all three the same amount, the bed will lower. By far the easiest thing to do is to figure out how much lower you want the bed to be and use that as the gcode offset in S3D.