first layer temperature

[sthone]

Save yourself any future trouble and just get the upgraded Metal Mount

[classicvideogamer]

Thanks guys, I ordered the metal mount. Just a little down, that I have to wait for & then install, and then can get back to trouble-shooting....

[classicvideogamer]

20 mm Calibration cube . Am I back in business ??

[Jules]

I would definitely say so.....looks great!

[classicvideogamer]

I was hopefull, for some reason I was able to print that cube, but I can't print much else

I don't know if these short videos will help at all, but looking for any help to get back to printing again...

Video # 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bR_tQdZO1MA

Video # 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJGx5bF4mhk

[Jules]

Okay, you have a V3B nozzle, the older version of the machine, and your first layer gap is too large. You need to:

1. At the very least, run some calibration squares to determine the Z-Offset for that filament.

The procedure is discussed here:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3124

2. If you want to be more accurate, you should re-set the Z-Stop FIRST, before you run the calibration squares. Setting the Z-Stop for your machine is demonstrated here with a business card.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0Cz6jPPECM

It would be better (more accurate) if you heat the nozzle and bed up to temperature and use a 0.15 mm metal feeler gauge to set the gap, but it's up to you. The thing to remember is, you always calculate the Z-Offset after you set the Z-Stop.

3. And this is the correct Beginner's Guide for your machine - be sure to download it and read it if you haven't already....it discusses all of the gap related issues.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3342

[classicvideogamer]

It would be better (more accurate) if you heat the nozzle and bed up to temperature and use a 0.15 mm metal feeler gauge to set the gap, but it's up to you. The thing to remember is, you always calculate the Z-Offset after you set the Z-Stop.

Just trying to understand this.... So I purchase the .15 mm metal feeler guage, and use that to set the gap, do I still need to set the z-offset ? It almost seems like the z-offset is a software change to make up for the lack of being able to set the z-offset well enough...

as as side note: I have been painstakingly tyring to set my z-stop & level my bed - but I'm probably not very good at it.

[Jules]

Setting the Z-Offset is the more helpful operation in my opinion - human beings are just not accurate enough to be able to set the Z-Stop perfectly. (And by that i mean - we just cannot physically see that small.)

If you have just been setting your Z-Stop without doing the Z-Offset calibrations, that might be why the gap is still too large. Give the calibrations a try and see if it doesn't improve your adhesion.

It almost seems like the z-offset is a software change to make up for the lack of being able to set the z-offset well enough...

That's exactly what it is. It's a command sent via the software to physically move the bed closer or farther away before starting the print. (Many ways to skin a persimmon with these machines.)

[classicvideogamer]

I did order some feeler guages...but until those come in.. I got my z-offset set to: -0.12 now. It doesn't look great to me, but at least it printed - so I'm pretty happy about that !

Thanks again Jules !

[Jules]

Looks much better! Might want to try some adhesive (hairspray) too while you're waiting on the gauges....it really helps the first layer to stick.

Don't forget, after you re-set the Z-Stop, the Z-Offset is going to change, and you need to re-run the calibrations. (Just once for each kind of filament though, and you can fine tune the Z-Offset number by going up or down by .02 mm increments until you get it just right. The thread will stick - it will be slightly squashed, and it's going to eliminate a lot of warping problems with the filament.)