Really Getting Started - Purchase Decision

[jimc]

pla smells nice and nothing to worry about. abs, the wife might complain but i dont even smell it really and the toxicity of the fumes are highly overrated for what we are doing. we melt abs not burn it. i run mine 20 hrs a day with abs indoors.

[Dale Reed]

All depends on how sensitive your significant other's nose is! I can hardly smell PLA, but my wife insists I keep the windows open when printing. I can't speak as to ABS, but I understand it is "stinkier" than PLA. You will probably want to vent to outdoors when printing ABS in a home environment. PET+ doesn't really have any smell at all that I can tell --- least objectionable of the ones I've heard about.

So it depends on the material. I'd say "work in a well-ventilated room".
Dale

[Toby]

I was going to put mine in my bedroom, but changed my mind after reading a claim that 3D printing released particles of filament into the air, and this might not be very good for you no matter what the filament.

That being said, I don't notice PLA unless I'm right next to the printer. ABS isn't noticeable at first, but it seems to build up in a room if there's no outside ventilation. I keep a small desk fan near the printer to add some air movement around it if it seems necessary.

Also, different filaments from different manufacturers (think:China), may contain nasty things that might even be illegal to use in this country. You never know.

I ended up putting my M2 in a guest bedroom and I'm glad I did for more reasons than safety: The printer can be noisy. If you have a long print (say 12 hours or more), when are you going to run it in your bedroom? Also, I've accumulated stuff around the printer that is useful for operating it. Having it's own separate space with nothing else going on helps me keep all that as organized or dis-organized as I like at any given time. That spare bedroom has quickly transformed into "3d central", and it makes working there a lot easier and more enjoyable.

[jbarnhardt]

the only problem with that dave is the whole way rhino works you start off with 2d linework then extrude them so you need the 2d element. its the basis for the whole thing. all in all the $1k they want isnt bad compared to most professional cad software that is multi thousands. if you use a mac then it free. or if you are in any kind of school or you have kids that are then you can get it for around $150 or less i believe on the education discount.

FYI the $150 education price for Rhino is very worth noting. You can purchase it for this price through a company called "Novedge" who are the official educational retailer for Rhino (and many other packages) and if you have anyone in your household or who you are related to that has an educational affiliation (student, teacher, administrator, etc.) you are likely to be able to obtain this pricing. It's an amazingly good deal for what is (as many others have noted) a very good, very powerful modeling program. I highly recommend it.

-John

[Asadinator]

Do all the necessary tools come with the printer?

[jimc]

yes for the most part. for the kit i believe you may need a couple small things. its been awhile now so i forget. maybe a 5.5mm and 7mm wrench...thats about it.

[jsc]

7mm wrench. Or anything to tighten a 7mm jam nut, it can be a pair of pliers. Once you have the printer working, there is a good one you can print.

It is also helpful to have a file, to get some of the nuts into their printed holes. Very tight clearance.

Other than that, everything comes with the kit. All the necessary screw drivers, zip ties, etc. for example.

[Asadinator]

I have purchased it and waiting, thanks guys for the help.

What is the power input for the printer? 120V?
What should I do if the power source here is 230V? Buy a step down transformer?

[Capt. John]

Asadinator,

Welcome to this board. Members here are highly skilled and will get you over the more tricky
parts asap. I the advice given here is topnotch, quicker then going thru Makergear regular support.
Which is great, but not as fast as it is here.

Make SURE your bed is 100% level and the head space between the nozzle and glass build plate is correct.
I've been using .006 or 0.15mm. Simply 3D software is quick to learn and worth the extra money I spent on it.
More experienced members might use different settings, but the .006 number works for me.

Stock heat settings in Simply 3D software work well with PLA and ABS

[mbonadio]

yeah i tried sketchup and wasnt too thrilled with it either. a friend that models professionally steered me toward rhino which is fantastic. i have the pc version but quit using it and now use the mac. i love it. if you decide to go the rhino route i have some videos just send me a pm.

Hi Jim,

I'm new to this forum and have been looking at Rhino for the Mac, you mentioned that you have some videos and I'd be more than interested in getting some information on that. Can you send me a message at michael_bonadio@hot mail . com or PM me here?

Thanks in advance
Michael