Prints are still not sticking down.

[Jules]

That is a characteristic of the new version of S3D with a Dual. I think it limits the display to the area that both nozzles can reach.

You can change how that prints by using an X-Offset of about 25 mm, but the display is going to look wonky on the screen.

Discussion on it here:

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2984

[Nofear202]

I don't get what the problem is here. For the past 2 days I printed these three models (picture 1) and they all came out great.
Now when I try to print this skull pencil holder I get this mess (picture 2 and 3). What am I doing wrong?

Skull pencil holder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1388237

Thanks

[Jules]

Did you move the bed closer to the nozzle for the first layer? (Re-set the Z-Stop and calculate the Z-Offset?) Are you using that Z-Offset in the S3D software, or did you accidentally over-write it?

That looks like it is air printing again.

If the settings are still the same as the ones that you used to successfully print your other prints - try more adhesive on the plate to keep the support stuck down. Support has very little footprint, so you have to go kind of heavy on the adhesive, or consider using a raft to stabilize the print.

Whenever you see something like this going on, stop the print and run a few calibration cubes until you get the correct measurement of 2.0 mm tall, plus or minus about 0.2 mm. Once you set the Z-Offset, it should be good for that filament until you change to something different. But you need to remember to code it into all of your profiles and SAVE it. Then use those profiles for that filament.

[Nofear202]

Yea I moved the z offset to -.03 and I'm pretty sure I didn't over write it.

It's not air printing because the other prints came out great?

I have tried more glue And did not work.

I bought feeler gauges and a caliper. Soon as those arrive I will try what you say and let you know.

Thank you for all the help!

[Jules]

No problem....it's tough to get that gap correct, (especially without feeler gauges and performing the Z-Stop setting while the nozzle and bed are hot), but it is absolutely critical.

When you get the feeler gauges and re-set the Z-Stop, you should do some test prints with the small calibration square, and take close up pictures of the bottom layer to post here. There are several experts here who can tell by looking at the first layer threads and how they are laid down, whether you have the gap too large or too small.

Matter of fact, it might be helpful to look at the bottom layer on those successful prints (the tall cube thing and the dino) to see if the bottom layer was laid down evenly on those. If they are smooth and well bonded with no gaps between the threads, then something has mechanically changed the gap between when you printed those, and now. (Don't know what it is yet, but that would help to determine what is causing the current sticking problem.)

[Nofear202]

Square tiny

Here the close ups on the bottom of the models you wanted.

[Jules]

Oh yeah - that cinches it. Your gap is definitely too large.

You got lucky that those printed and stuck. You have almost a full thread width's gap between those threads on the first layer.

Your first layer needs to look like the picture below:

Hang on.....got to find something in a different color so you can actually see it in a photo:

Okay...sorry about that....kitty cat required immediate attention.......

See how in the first pic below, you can just barely see the individual threads in the bottom of the first layer? That's what you are shooting for.

This other picture shows what happens if there is a slight greasy spot on the plate - it's the only place you can see individual threads 'cause they didn't adhere quite as well:

The good news is - once you have the feeler gauges in hand, it's going to be a lot easier to set that gap correctly. Be sure to follow the instructions, EVERY SINGLE STEP, in the Beginner's Guide when you set everything. (Just read one and check it off as you do it.) It's critical to clean off the nozzle first, for example, otherwise you aren't going to set the gap correctly. And you need to set the gap while the nozzle and bed are hot, you'll get much better results.

You're going to be amazed at how good your prints become once you have that set correctly.

[Nofear202]

Is this close enough?

[Jules]

Much better. Give that a try - see if it doesn't work a lot better.

You can still stand to tighten that up a bit more, but that looks pretty good from what I can see in the photo. I still see some individual threads in there, but you will be able to adjust that with the Z-Offset from this point.

[Nofear202]

It still prints this out just not as messy. Picture 1 & 2
I ran minion model that took 12 hours and came out great. Picture 3
What am I doing wrong?

Thanks