My M2 master profiles.

Have questions or comments about Simplify3D, Slic3r, Cura, Reptier, etc? Or wondering about which CAD software to use...discuss it here...
rsilvers
Posts: 184
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 11:07 pm

My M2 master profiles.

Post by rsilvers » Mon May 04, 2015 3:56 am

Jsc helped me unify all of my settings and materials into one file. I have been using this for a while with great results.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:806946

I have printed plate after plate of parts with no problems:

Image

KiddingMe
Posts: 47
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 12:35 am

Re: My M2 master profiles.

Post by KiddingMe » Mon May 04, 2015 3:07 pm

Thank you! Any improvements since the previous profiles you had on thingi?

A lot of great looking prints in that picture...what type and brand of filament was used in those?

rsilvers
Posts: 184
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 11:07 pm

Re: My M2 master profiles.

Post by rsilvers » Mon May 04, 2015 5:14 pm

Yes, it is improved.

The best thing is one profile for all materials.

This is Hatchbox gold PLA from Amazon.

Bratag
Posts: 438
Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:33 am

Re: My M2 master profiles.

Post by Bratag » Mon May 04, 2015 7:46 pm

Awesome - thanks for the profiles.

Is the print in the picture by any chance the manual clock that was featured on Thingiverse recently?

Am just about to start that myself.

rsilvers
Posts: 184
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 11:07 pm

Re: My M2 master profiles.

Post by rsilvers » Mon May 04, 2015 9:50 pm

Yes. If you look at my remix of it I made four build plates for an M2 size bed.

I bought drill rod, screws, and metric drills from McMaster for the pins. Cost $20 in hardware for metal parts for two clocks.

Bratag
Posts: 438
Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:33 am

Re: My M2 master profiles.

Post by Bratag » Tue May 05, 2015 2:03 am

I notice you print at a lot lower temp that I had previously seen for PLA - Ive done a couple of calibration prints and it seems fine - wondering now if I have been printing too high all this time. Interstingly enough these new profile temps are more in line with what my old printer used.

rsilvers
Posts: 184
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 11:07 pm

Re: My M2 master profiles.

Post by rsilvers » Tue May 05, 2015 2:12 am

Printing at 200 does not strike me as especially low. Lots of people print at 185 or 190.

If you read the comments on Thingiverse about the clock, lots of people have trouble printing it. Even the designer said that he had overheated parts and so created special files with dummy objects to cause delay. I had no problems at all. I printed every clock part twice and every part came out well.

Just remember - you can't make changes to these settings and then export them from Simplify. You must edit them by hand with a text editor.

Bratag
Posts: 438
Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:33 am

Re: My M2 master profiles.

Post by Bratag » Tue May 05, 2015 2:16 am

rsilvers wrote:Printing at 200 does not strike me as especially low. Lots of people print at 185 or 190.

If you read the comments on Thingiverse about the clock, lots of people have trouble printing it. Even the designer said that he had overheated parts and so created special files with dummy objects to cause delay. I had no problems at all. I printed every clock part twice and every part came out well.

Just remember - you can't make changes to these settings and then export them from Simplify. You must edit them by hand with a text editor.
I generally keep a running list of extrusion multipliers etc and then tweak the profile as needed on the fly. Skipping over the clock for the moment - going to the giant hawk instead. We have an idiot bird that insists it wants to be let inside the house , hoping the hawk will scare him away from the front door.

Bratag
Posts: 438
Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:33 am

Re: My M2 master profiles.

Post by Bratag » Tue May 05, 2015 2:38 am

One last question - why 200% infil width?

rsilvers
Posts: 184
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 11:07 pm

Re: My M2 master profiles.

Post by rsilvers » Tue May 05, 2015 3:05 am

200% infill width speeds up printing by laying a double-wide line while still preserving your desired infill percentage. It makes 1/2 as many passes. Infill is inside the object and so does not need to be perfectly formed to add the desired strength.

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