My M2 master profiles.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Makes sense though I had to reduce it myself . With esun PLA had real issues with it not adhering tot he layer below (even cranking up the heat) lower infil % did the trick
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Rsilver, I'm using your settings right now and they work beautifully, thank you. I'm a little confused by your statement above, can you clarify this for a Simplify3D Noob?rsilvers wrote:Just remember - you can't make changes to these settings and then export them from Simplify. You must edit them by hand with a text editor.
thanks,
c
Re: My M2 master profiles.
It applies a lot less with the new version of S3D
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Does the new profile need to be updated for V3 and beyond?
Re: My M2 master profiles.
I'm using your .35mm nozzle ABS profile. I'm using Hatchbox ABS 1.75 Blue filament which measures a true 1.75mm and I found that the .9 extrusion multiplier left a gap between the perimeter and infill in parts of an intricate model I have. I increased that to 1.0 and it filled in perfectly leaving no gap! I'm testing out .95 to see if I can make the surface a little bit flatter. I'll test out 1.05 later tonight as well just to get a good range of test points to finish the night.
Anyway, I'm extremely impressed. Good work!
This software is proving to create much better results than Cura. I played around with a ton of values to perfect Cura, but this software is producing much better results. The surface finish is much nicer and everything's in proportion and in exactly the right places.
Anyway, I'm extremely impressed. Good work!
This software is proving to create much better results than Cura. I played around with a ton of values to perfect Cura, but this software is producing much better results. The surface finish is much nicer and everything's in proportion and in exactly the right places.
Last edited by swbluto on Fri Jul 17, 2015 6:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Depending on the part geometry, there may be occasional gaps between infill and perimeters. Don't rely on that to set the extrusion multiplier; run an extrusion calibration using a thin wall cube. There is an oft-cited thread in the first page of the Tips forum (difficult for me to link it as I'm not on my computer, sorry).
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Just completed the range of values, and it appears an extrusion multiplier of 1.0 had the best results with the 1.75mm hatchbox ABS filament which measures a true 1.75mm, with a .35mm nozzle.
The original .9 left gaps between the perimeter and infill.
.95 was excellent just like 1.00, however, there were tiny gaps on the bottom layer at certain points on the perimeter.
1.05 turned out just as well as 1.00, but it appears the top layer is a hairline ridgier.
Now I need to figure out how to get rid of those surface scratches that appears to be caused by the extruder when it's traveling.
The original .9 left gaps between the perimeter and infill.
.95 was excellent just like 1.00, however, there were tiny gaps on the bottom layer at certain points on the perimeter.
1.05 turned out just as well as 1.00, but it appears the top layer is a hairline ridgier.
Now I need to figure out how to get rid of those surface scratches that appears to be caused by the extruder when it's traveling.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Add .10-.20 mm z-lift on retraction.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Great profile rsilvers. I've been using your original off Thingiverse for quite a while with great success. I'll be checking out your new one today. One quick question, I see that you are using 6 for top and bottom layers and 3 for perimeter shells. I've been using 3 for top and bottom and 2 for shells just for the sake of faster prints depending on the model and my requirements. Is that just a personal preference?
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Couple of pointers to anyone using these that I found. Note that these were on S3D 3.0.1, printed using USB connection.
1) The acceleration speed gets overridden and boosted really high in the beginning gcode script. This made my z-axis super unhappy so I just flat out removed it for now. Going to see if I can apply just to x and y axes in the future.
2) I reduced the layer setting back to the defaults of 3 for top/bottom and 2 for shells. This increased print speed and reduced plastic without any noticeable detriment to water-proof'ness and print fidelity
3) I reduced the default infill percentage from 30% to 15% with no loss to fidelity. This is a bit of YMMV depending on what you're printing.
4) I increased the extrusion multiplier to 0.98 from the default because I was also seeing gapping issues.
5) I removed the "Drop the Z axis" command from the ending gcode script because I will totally forget about it when I'm doing a larger object, and honestly my build platform normally drops all by itself when unpowered.
6) I dropped the purge from 25 to 20 just to save some plastic. I have gone as low as 15 but that's bitten me in the past so I kept it higher this time.
It also kinda goes without saying but you'll need to retune your machine a bit for this. For example the retraction speed is higher than on my old profile, which caused the plastic to strip out the first time I used this so I tightened the necessary screw and fixed that.
1) The acceleration speed gets overridden and boosted really high in the beginning gcode script. This made my z-axis super unhappy so I just flat out removed it for now. Going to see if I can apply just to x and y axes in the future.
2) I reduced the layer setting back to the defaults of 3 for top/bottom and 2 for shells. This increased print speed and reduced plastic without any noticeable detriment to water-proof'ness and print fidelity
3) I reduced the default infill percentage from 30% to 15% with no loss to fidelity. This is a bit of YMMV depending on what you're printing.
4) I increased the extrusion multiplier to 0.98 from the default because I was also seeing gapping issues.
5) I removed the "Drop the Z axis" command from the ending gcode script because I will totally forget about it when I'm doing a larger object, and honestly my build platform normally drops all by itself when unpowered.
6) I dropped the purge from 25 to 20 just to save some plastic. I have gone as low as 15 but that's bitten me in the past so I kept it higher this time.
It also kinda goes without saying but you'll need to retune your machine a bit for this. For example the retraction speed is higher than on my old profile, which caused the plastic to strip out the first time I used this so I tightened the necessary screw and fixed that.