My M2 master profiles.
My M2 master profiles.
Jsc helped me unify all of my settings and materials into one file. I have been using this for a while with great results.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:806946
I have printed plate after plate of parts with no problems:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:806946
I have printed plate after plate of parts with no problems:
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Thank you! Any improvements since the previous profiles you had on thingi?
A lot of great looking prints in that picture...what type and brand of filament was used in those?
A lot of great looking prints in that picture...what type and brand of filament was used in those?
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Yes, it is improved.
The best thing is one profile for all materials.
This is Hatchbox gold PLA from Amazon.
The best thing is one profile for all materials.
This is Hatchbox gold PLA from Amazon.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Awesome - thanks for the profiles.
Is the print in the picture by any chance the manual clock that was featured on Thingiverse recently?
Am just about to start that myself.
Is the print in the picture by any chance the manual clock that was featured on Thingiverse recently?
Am just about to start that myself.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Yes. If you look at my remix of it I made four build plates for an M2 size bed.
I bought drill rod, screws, and metric drills from McMaster for the pins. Cost $20 in hardware for metal parts for two clocks.
I bought drill rod, screws, and metric drills from McMaster for the pins. Cost $20 in hardware for metal parts for two clocks.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
I notice you print at a lot lower temp that I had previously seen for PLA - Ive done a couple of calibration prints and it seems fine - wondering now if I have been printing too high all this time. Interstingly enough these new profile temps are more in line with what my old printer used.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
Printing at 200 does not strike me as especially low. Lots of people print at 185 or 190.
If you read the comments on Thingiverse about the clock, lots of people have trouble printing it. Even the designer said that he had overheated parts and so created special files with dummy objects to cause delay. I had no problems at all. I printed every clock part twice and every part came out well.
Just remember - you can't make changes to these settings and then export them from Simplify. You must edit them by hand with a text editor.
If you read the comments on Thingiverse about the clock, lots of people have trouble printing it. Even the designer said that he had overheated parts and so created special files with dummy objects to cause delay. I had no problems at all. I printed every clock part twice and every part came out well.
Just remember - you can't make changes to these settings and then export them from Simplify. You must edit them by hand with a text editor.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
I generally keep a running list of extrusion multipliers etc and then tweak the profile as needed on the fly. Skipping over the clock for the moment - going to the giant hawk instead. We have an idiot bird that insists it wants to be let inside the house , hoping the hawk will scare him away from the front door.rsilvers wrote:Printing at 200 does not strike me as especially low. Lots of people print at 185 or 190.
If you read the comments on Thingiverse about the clock, lots of people have trouble printing it. Even the designer said that he had overheated parts and so created special files with dummy objects to cause delay. I had no problems at all. I printed every clock part twice and every part came out well.
Just remember - you can't make changes to these settings and then export them from Simplify. You must edit them by hand with a text editor.
Re: My M2 master profiles.
One last question - why 200% infil width?
Re: My M2 master profiles.
200% infill width speeds up printing by laying a double-wide line while still preserving your desired infill percentage. It makes 1/2 as many passes. Infill is inside the object and so does not need to be perfectly formed to add the desired strength.