The side of the bracelet that is facing up in that picture....is that the bottom of the print?
If so it almost looks like your first layer is way too smushed (so to speak) you may need to also set your z height better.
-Steve
First M2 print [bracelet] is looking bad, but why?
Re: First M2 print [bracelet] is looking bad, but why?
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Re: First M2 print [bracelet] is looking bad, but why?
sthone wrote:The side of the bracelet that is facing up in that picture....is that the bottom of the print?
If so it almost looks like your first layer is way too smushed (so to speak) you may need to also set your z height better.
-Steve
Yes that's the bottom of the print. I'll try adjusting the z height in my next attempt.
Re: First M2 print [bracelet] is looking bad, but why?
Did another test, this time with the fan on, and z axis slightly adjusted.
It was a slight improvement, but I still get warping in the exact same area.
I'd best describe the area as the inner part of the bracelet that faces the fan. The lower half of the bracelet gets it the worst.
It was a slight improvement, but I still get warping in the exact same area.
I'd best describe the area as the inner part of the bracelet that faces the fan. The lower half of the bracelet gets it the worst.
Re: First M2 print [bracelet] is looking bad, but why?
Might help if you could post the gcode or at least the stl so we can give it a shot at slicing here. Also what slicer are you using (You may have mentioned, but I didn't scan it)
Re: First M2 print [bracelet] is looking bad, but why?
Are you using anything to stick the PLA to the bed?
Hairspray works. So does Elmer's Purple glue stick. (And when they tell you that PLA doesn't require anything to stick to the glass, that is more wishful thinking than anything else. You need to use something.)
PLA warps up, especially on thin contact areas with the surface. (Like the bracelet.) You need to hit the glass with a heavy, even application of hairspray or glue, let it dry, then try the print again.
Another thing is that bracelet does appear to have an overhang. PLA needs to be hit with a lot of cooling on overhangs or it warps and causes those loops. If you have a desk fan that you can point at the back (where the front fan doesn't hit it) you'll stop that looping.
Did you calibrate the extrusion width? (That looks like an awfully large thread. Could just be the photo.) For overhangs in S3D, you want to print the Outline Direction from the Inside-Out. And it helps to slow the printing speed down.
You know what - try my settings. Import the fff file below. Do a calibration adjustment because I have removed the Z-height adjustments specific to my setup. (These settings are for the v3B.)
Link to Extrusion Calibration instructions:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1964
V3B settings for MakerGear Black PLA:
See if it works better for you. (And use that extra fan - overhangs are a bugger with PLA.)
Hairspray works. So does Elmer's Purple glue stick. (And when they tell you that PLA doesn't require anything to stick to the glass, that is more wishful thinking than anything else. You need to use something.)
PLA warps up, especially on thin contact areas with the surface. (Like the bracelet.) You need to hit the glass with a heavy, even application of hairspray or glue, let it dry, then try the print again.
Another thing is that bracelet does appear to have an overhang. PLA needs to be hit with a lot of cooling on overhangs or it warps and causes those loops. If you have a desk fan that you can point at the back (where the front fan doesn't hit it) you'll stop that looping.
Did you calibrate the extrusion width? (That looks like an awfully large thread. Could just be the photo.) For overhangs in S3D, you want to print the Outline Direction from the Inside-Out. And it helps to slow the printing speed down.
You know what - try my settings. Import the fff file below. Do a calibration adjustment because I have removed the Z-height adjustments specific to my setup. (These settings are for the v3B.)
Link to Extrusion Calibration instructions:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1964
V3B settings for MakerGear Black PLA:
See if it works better for you. (And use that extra fan - overhangs are a bugger with PLA.)