If you want to see what can be achieved with a little effort and a whole lot of talent
There are many joins in that piece and the only place it looks joined is where Jim was asked to make it look like welded metal joins Absolute max print size
Re: Absolute max print size
Agree with all comments here. Take a look at viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2390
If you want to see what can be achieved with a little effort and a whole lot of talent There are many joins in that piece and the only place it looks joined is where Jim was asked to make it look like welded metal joins
If you want to see what can be achieved with a little effort and a whole lot of talent
There are many joins in that piece and the only place it looks joined is where Jim was asked to make it look like welded metal joins Re: Absolute max print size
Yep, saw that thread last night, and I have to say is..... WOW. IIRC the reason the engineer for mine was wanting to actually mount the part on a robot and mount I think a gopro and something else onto it. so he was worried about it falling apart and the appearance of seems, But looking at the specs I think it could be possible to split the part into 6x6x7 pieces and fuse them together to get a solid hold and do some sanding and painting on the seems to make them invisible.
Re: Absolute max print size
Just be smart about splitting it apart. The tubes on that model for instance. Thise were split at the bend so the could be printed without support. For those i didnt split them with a straight cut. I put a keyway there so the alignment was rigjt on when they went back together. Just think woodworking joints. It helps with both strength and alignment when your done.
Re: Absolute max print size
Yeah, I was thinking something along those lines, it has a 25mm wall thickness (crazy) so i was thinking after it was split I could put a key along the entire length and slot on the other side, kind of like the quick wood flooring (can't think of the correct name for it), and apply an adhesive in the slots so when the key goes in it pushes the adhesive up the sides and gives it more surface area to bond, then smooth and finish the seems so they are not noticeable. At least that's the idea.
Re: Absolute max print size
Tongue and groove. Yes something like that
Re: Absolute max print size
Need a utility to split prints with dovetail joinery...
Re: Absolute max print size
Actually, I've done that, but had to do it by hand.Need a utility to split prints with dovetail joinery...
Re: Absolute max print size
BTW, to answer the OP's question about absolute maximum print size, it's defined in the Marlin firmware for the M2. If I recall correctly (being at work away from my M2), I think it's define in the Configuration.h file as 205 mm in X, by 255 mm in Y, by 205 mm in Z. With the V4 extruder, you might be able to get another 5-10 mm in Z (if you modify the configuration and rebuild and flash the firmware).
If I remember tonight, I'll double-check the firmware files and post the exact #define lines and the appropriate filename.
If I remember tonight, I'll double-check the firmware files and post the exact #define lines and the appropriate filename.
Re: Absolute max print size
I also got another 10mm in X with the dual extruder, but only for the left.Dale Reed wrote:BTW, to answer the OP's question about absolute maximum print size, it's defined in the Marlin firmware for the M2. If I recall correctly (being at work away from my M2), I think it's define in the Configuration.h file as 205 mm in X, by 255 mm in Y, by 205 mm in Z. With the V4 extruder, you might be able to get another 5-10 mm in Z (if you modify the configuration and rebuild and flash the firmware).
If I remember tonight, I'll double-check the firmware files and post the exact #define lines and the appropriate filename.
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Re: Absolute max print size
Thanks folks, yeah..I have a V3b, and I measured my z axis to something like 196.85mm (7.75in). I ended up only make a 40% and 20% scale version of the part for my coworker and he was pretty happy with it, even though I was not.
I wasn't too happy any of the prints because every print had a defect of some kind based on the orientation because he had 2 bosses going into a sphere, if I tried to orientate the part so one boss was built vertical going upwards, then the first thing built would be the sphere and every time i tried that the layers looked horrible, and the only way to get a decent sphere was to print with one of the outside protruding features as the base but then that made one of the internal bosses starting in mid-air, I tried supports and it worked great for a number of layers looked perfect then something went wrong and the boss broke from the support while I was sleeping, my guess is that the ABS had warped a little bit and when the extrude finished a layer of the boss or a layer of the outside shell and while moving caught the warped edge and broke the boss from the support. None the less the guy was happy with how the scale versions came out.
I wasn't too happy any of the prints because every print had a defect of some kind based on the orientation because he had 2 bosses going into a sphere, if I tried to orientate the part so one boss was built vertical going upwards, then the first thing built would be the sphere and every time i tried that the layers looked horrible, and the only way to get a decent sphere was to print with one of the outside protruding features as the base but then that made one of the internal bosses starting in mid-air, I tried supports and it worked great for a number of layers looked perfect then something went wrong and the boss broke from the support while I was sleeping, my guess is that the ABS had warped a little bit and when the extrude finished a layer of the boss or a layer of the outside shell and while moving caught the warped edge and broke the boss from the support. None the less the guy was happy with how the scale versions came out.