Well, this is heartbreaking.........

[Jules]

Finally needed to level the bed a bit, so spent the better part of an afternoon doing it. (Saw that a couple of you guys said it was easy - to which I reply....Hah!) Then I painstakingly set that Z-stop so that, by gosh, no adjustments were necessary for any filament whatsoever. Every single calibration square I printed over the next two days, at any spot on the bed, using any roll of filament (and i tested them all) came in at 2.0 mm tall, plus or minus 0.02 mm, which is about as close as I can get with my calipers.

While this was going on, I reloaded every single profile into the new version of S3D, after changing all of those Z-Offset adjustments, tested them again, and I was on the last spool - the PETG. Ran some cleaner filament through at the PLA temp, since I was switching from PLA to PETG, and didn't want to cook any PLA into the nozzle and create a clog. Put the PETG in, heated it up to correct temp, (forgot I was working with PETG after 18 spools of PLA) and ran a 100mm purge through to clean out the cleaning filament.

Well, either the cleaning filament or 100mm of PETG going through the V4 PTFE nozzle with that much force actually pushed the nozzle further down out of the cradle. I started the final calibration print, walked over to the machine to catch the starting purge (which I normally do). As it purged I saw that the nozzle was too low and raced to get to the Emergency Stop button........

Didn't make it.

Ouch!.jpg (260.31 KiB) Viewed 11056 times

Dammitall! Now i have to start over.

[PcS]

Ouch is right !!!!!! I feel your pain !!!!

[routr71]

Just move the part so it prints right beside the scratched tape. I do this with mine all the time, printing in different areas until I finally destroy every square inch of the tape. Then I finally rip it off any apply a new patch.

But yea, definitely gotta get that nozzle to stay put first

[04kmorri]

it looks like it also messed up his glass, and moving it over only works if its a small part.

[Jules]

(her glass. whoop! there goes the neighborhood! ) And thanks for the empathy and suggestions. Unfortunately, I did have to switch out the glass, although the nozzle was okay, and I didn't bend the neck on the hotend. (Thank the Lord!)

No, the tragedy of the situation was defintely the timing - it couldn't have happened on the first spool. It had to wait until the 20th spool, after two solid days of calibration prints, to throw everything off by getting that nozzle position out of whack! Grrrrrrrrrrrr!

I finally got it re-leveled to my satisfaction yesterday and the Z-stop reset for the new glass plate. I suspect I might be just a bit too fiddly about these things, I know that you guys can't possibly spend an entire day leveling a bed, you'd never get anyting else done. My study looks like a freaking bomb went off in here.

Oh well, hopefully i won't pull that same dumb stunt again. (It'll be a different one next time. )

[04kmorri]

Glad to hear it didn't cause too much damage, and yeah next time it will happen while the print in in process and for some reason it will drive the bed right into the extruder while you're printing. With this kind of issue and the fact that the z-home switch is in an inconvenient location, I've been thinking it would be nice to add an 1024 count encoder to the stepper motors and set up a software end stop for both + and - directions, and hopefully figure out how to exchange location data with the Rambo (or whatever board is being used) so that if there is a command given to go in a "bad" direction it would stop the print, and would make setting home positions more accurate.

Something like http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/827016 or http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/827015 for those that are curious.

[Jules]

Glad to hear it didn't cause too much damage, and yeah next time it will happen while the print in in process and for some reason it will drive the bed right into the extruder while you're printing. With this kind of issue and the fact that the z-home switch is in an inconvenient location, I've been thinking it would be nice to add an 1024 count encoder to the stepper motors and set up a software end stop for both + and - directions, and hopefully figure out how to exchange location data with the Rambo (or whatever board is being used) so that if there is a command given to go in a "bad" direction it would stop the print, and would make setting home positions more accurate.

Something like http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/827016 or http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/827015 for those that are curious.

ROFL! And here my brilliant idea was just to glue a stick to the reset button so I could reach it next time!

[Dale Reed]

Jules,
Thank goodness for the stability of the bed leveling on the M2. With some other printers, it's like tuning a banjo:

• Banjo tuning: You spend half your time tuning, and half your time playing out of tune.

• Bed leveling: You spend half your time calibrating your bed level and gap, and half your time printing calibration parts.

Hmmm. I wonder if I can print a few good thumb picks out of PETG....?

[Bratag]

Jules,
Thank goodness for the stability of the bed leveling on the M2. With some other printers, it's like tuning a banjo:

• Banjo tuning: You spend half your time tuning, and half your time playing out of tune.

• Bed leveling: You spend half your time calibrating your bed level and gap, and half your time printing calibration parts.

Hmmm. I wonder if I can print a few good thumb picks out of PETG....?

Don't see why not - I print my guitar plectrums out of it.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:288871

ROCK ON!

[Jules]

Jules,
Thank goodness for the stability of the bed leveling on the M2. With some other printers, it's like tuning a banjo:

• Banjo tuning: You spend half your time tuning, and half your time playing out of tune.

• Bed leveling: You spend half your time calibrating your bed level and gap, and half your time printing calibration parts.

Amen to that! Mine probably never would have gotten un-level after only 4 months, except for the really bad habit I've got of just prying the prints off the plate while it's still on the machine. (No patience.)