Testers Needed

[sprior]

I'm sure they want to keep this app as simple as possible, so make it a default and have a tooltip advising that most people do not have to change this, only really advanced users do.

[Josh]

Yeah, you guys have definitely given me some thoughts on improvements already. I was thinking along the same lines for the settings - a "settings" window, accessible through standard menu, that lists all the default values the app uses. Nice simple button that resets all to default, but will use and save any that are modified. That way, a new user can just go through without worrying about changing anything, but those who need to, have easy access.

[PcS]

One word of caution do not drop all leveling screws to the minimum or bottom. It causes too much heat in the linear rail as well as some weird sound from the bearing. Almost like the heated beds electromagnetic field was messing with the bearing. Moved it back to flush and reset leveling and all is well now .

[jimc]

Thats weird. An odd sound from the bearing. If you feel the rail and carraige do they feel warm or hot? Wonder if its just a heat expansion thing? Might be good and tighten the bearing up a little. My misumi rail is a high temp model so prob not good to test that theory. I would think 90% of the heat would rise up. Ill have to take note of the rail temp next time i print.

[insta]

Yeah, you guys have definitely given me some thoughts on improvements already. I was thinking along the same lines for the settings - a "settings" window, accessible through standard menu, that lists all the default values the app uses. Nice simple button that resets all to default, but will use and save any that are modified. That way, a new user can just go through without worrying about changing anything, but those who need to, have easy access.

What's the windows one written in? If it's C#, open a private Github repo and I'll throw some codes your way

[PcS]

It reminded me of electricity. ...or arcing electricity. And the carriage was very hot. The rail itself was just warm. I left a narrow air gap but it was not enough. Since I raised it the noise and heat have gone.

[jimc]

for anyone needing them and assuming rick doesnt mind we use it for testing, here is a modded version of my bed corner for use with this beta. you will probably need it if you have the mic6 plate. let s3d scale to mm since it was modeled in inches.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1217210

[PcS]

Thanks Jim wondered when you would get to this ! I just cut the corners out of yours that I was already using ! Lol

[jimc]

haha i did the same thing to mine until i had a chance to mod the model. im printing a set right now in epc. my first print with the new setup. sliced and ran through s3d without a hitch. i want to print a box with some holes in the side walls to test out and see if ringing is reduced. im most curious about that.

for anyone following the nozzle collision thing or has the issue, josh had me try setting the zmax in the firmware from the default 200 to 190, recompile and upload. that actually did the trick. it gave me an extra cm of clearance. i assume at some point the defaults in the app will user adjustable but for now that worked out great for me. i was able to raise the z endstop up a few mm to clear the screw heads on my electronics box and still have about 8mm of nozzle clearance when going through the height adjustment in the app.

the one thing i do like about the old system, or atleast the way i had it set up was when i change a nozzle which i do alot, i was able to tweak the bed gap in a matter of 2 seconds to adjust it tighter or looser. as of now, unless im missing an easier way, i need to run the mg app and run the height adjustment again to get that set which is not really that big a deal but will take a few min and a small price to pay really for the increased stability and strength of this whole setup.

to add something to my previous statement....i do feel like a bit of a dumb ass. i have been using s3d for i think 3 years now and i just realized the i could hit the jog controls for +-z at .01 on the fly to adjust that first layer while the printer is printing. for some reason i never tried it because it just wasnt part of my workflow i guess and i just figured while printing s3d would lock those out.....guess not. well atleast now if i change a nozzle and the gap is wrong i can change it on the fly without a restart until i get a chance to run the app and reset the gap. i used to just give the knob 1 click but many times 1 click on that can be too big a jump.

[insta]

so uh my software mysteriously works and it was a total random happenstance and we wont talk about why the baudrate wasn't set to the stock 115200 or why i never mentioned it